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Great Greek in Great Neck

It may have been the full moon, the autumnal equinox or the congenial group, but wow, the food at Ethos was superb.

Our party of four was treated to one of the best meals we have ever eaten and as lifelong New Yorkers that is saying a lot. The restaurant is inviting, nicely decorated, the lighting is just so, the tables set and the staff is attentive. But it is really all about the food, from Pikilia Spreads to Baklava.

We began our meal with the Pikilia, an assortment of pureed delights, to smear on warm pita bread. We added Thalasomezes, a warm plate of char-grilled shrimp, octopus and calamari, in olive oil and spices – the best ever.

The hot, seared Saganaki Kefalotyri is Greek cheese cooked in olive oil, salty and delicious, it could be habit forming! There were also two special salads – Kypriaki was the first – imported Cypriot goat cheese, lightly grilled, with roasted red peppers and grilled croutons on a bed on baby greens, and slices of sour apples in an olive, basil and lemon dressing. Maroulosalata was the second – hearts of Romaine lettuce, scallions, dill and feta cheese topped with lemon dressing and olive oil. We could have stopped here but we did not.

The main courses we ordered included a perfectly grilled Bronzini, one of the house specialties that can be served whole or boned. The fish was crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. The grilled lamb chops were heavenly. The grilled sirloin was properly prepared to order and was the equal of any steakhouse. The Moussaka – layers of sautéed ground meat, eggplant, potatoes, topped with Béchamel sauce and oven baked to perfection – was oh so Greek. We accompanied the main courses with Fasolakia (stewed green beans), Spanakorizo (sautéed spinach and rice), Horta (steamed dandelions) and oven roasted lemon potatoes.

If this is Greek to you, than just go and enjoy Ethos in Great Neck. There is a dinner special at all times.

Ethos occupies the space once occupied by Millie’s Place.

Ethos 3

25 Middle Neck Road

Great Neck, L.I.

Hours: Noon to 10 p.m. seven-days-a-week

Telephone: 516-305-4958

Web site: www.ethosrestaurants.com

Credit Cards: All majors.

Parties: Two private rooms that can accommodate 20 or 50 guests.

Catering: Off premise catering is also available.

Parking: On street.