Share on FacebookTweet about this on TwitterEmail this to someone
Share on FacebookTweet about this on TwitterEmail this to someone
pancakes
pancakes
The pancakes at Astoria's Café Triskell.

There’s nothing quite like pancakes for dinner, especially when those pancakes are Café Triskell’s tissue-paper thin buckwheat crepes painstakingly prepared in the culinary tradition of Brittany, France.

Once you pass through the doorway, you are transported to a secluded, rustic, French café with one cook, one server and just a handful of tables. Daily specials are inscribed on a chalkboard and the restaurant’s Facebook page. Chef Phillippe Fallait, a pastry chef by training, showcases both savory (try the chicken and goat cheese) and sweet crepes on the permanent menu alongside a handful of French classics.

Begin, of course, with a crock of French onion soup, the onions caramelized so tender they blend with the broth. Golden bubbles of cheese rise and fall before you in a thick layer of gruyere and swiss.

The frisée salad rivals even the best bistros in Manhattan, with a mountain of chicory, lardoons, buttery croutons, crumbles of bleu cheese and poached egg.

Next, five pinwheels arrive on a green-tinted platter – juicy chicken curled with ribbons of mozzarella, swiss and savory slivers of ham. A hearty entrée for one, the plate easily divides into meal-teasers for two to five people.

Salty medallions of corned beef arrive on crispy potatoes, topped with arugula, a poached egg, and hollandaise sauce, elevating corned beef hash to rustic French breakfast.

I am a sucker for a croque madame (anything with eggs and cheese, please), and the version here is one of my very favorites. Essentially, it is a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. But at Triskell, the pièce de resistance is a delicate béchamel that bubbles under the blankets of swiss, all topped with a golden-centered egg, perfect for popping and dipping.

Steak frites arrive sizzling in a skillet, and a pork stroganoff caught me off guard in a wonderful way, the tender creamy sautee served with a buttery bowl of mashed potatoes, ideal for mixing and matching bites of flavor. The chicken and lamb bastilla with a pompom of frisée on it transports me to Morocco, with the crumbled meat and seasonings packed into a crisp pastry parcel. Escargots are rendered sublimely tender and buttery, with intense garlic and sweet, tangy bursts of cherry tomatoes.

Dessert here is a must, with a flute of sparkling apple cider. The lemon and sugar crepe is sublime in its simplicity, and even better with a mixed berry compote on top. If they have not run out (because they so often do), ask for a shot glass of Fallait’s signature banana fudge jam to top a plain crepe. It will leave your lips sweet for an after-dinner French kiss.

Café Triskell
33-04 36th Avenue, Astoria
718-472-0612
Wed – Sun, 11a.m. – 10 p.m.

 BRADLEY HAWKS

 

MORE DINING PROFILES

Comments:

Join The Discussion



Related Stories
A number of beloved Queens restaurants that never offered delivery before are now featured in a delivery app
A number of beloved Queens restaurants that never offered delivery before are now featured in a delivery app
Dining: The Don of a new day
Dining: The Don of a new day
Popular Stories
Photo via Google Maps
Cantonese restaurant King Yum in Fresh Meadows is closing for good
Photo: Suzanne Monteverdi/QNS
Son allegedly slashed mother, then himself at Bayside assisted living facility, police say
Photo by Robert Stridiron/Inset courtesy of NYPD
Woodhaven home invader roughed up woman and locked her in a closet, cops said
Skip to toolbar