Among nobility, dukes rank just below kings and princes – and on 150th Street in the heart of “the village” of Whitestone, Ducale Ristorante is a cozy realm of delicious Italian food that doesn’t cost a king’s ransom.
Tables in the welcoming main dining room are generously spaced for comfort and quiet conversation; the well-stocked bar divides the main from the 25-person side dining room, available for parties. Manager Alex Rio is attentive to your every need.
To make the place even more appealing in these trying times, Ducale has a “Special Priced Fixed Menu” every day. For $25 (plus tax) diners choose soup, salad or eggplant Parmagiana; choice of veal, chicken, fish or pasta dish, and dessert with coffee or tea.
However, we couldn’t resist ordering off the menu and every dish was true to the essence of Italian food: simply prepared from the finest ingredients.
While we pondered the simple yet comprehensive menu, our server brought an amuse bouche of lightly herb-breaded fried zucchini sticks – perfectly cooked starters.
For appetizers, we had Polenta con Salsicca, Piedmont-style (with a touch of pepper) sautéed cornmeal mush, with sausage and mushrooms in a light tomato sauce. The sweet golden wedges, savory meat and slightly tart sauce were perfect.
From Tuscany came the Portobello alla Toscana, the mushroom dressed in Fontina cheese, and halved grape tomatoes in a balsamic vinaigrette sauce. Buonissimo.
Like truly fine Italian restaurants, the menu changes a little with the seasons – in the cool months they have Osso Bucco, and Risotto fruiti di mare as summer approaches, seafood salad and home-made crab cakes appear.
Rio’s wife Giovana reigns over the making of the fresh pastas, and their Papardelle della Casa, wide fettuccini with zucchini and melted mozzarella in a meat sauce, is superb.
We also had the Tortelloni alla Qattro Formaggi. The royal-sized tortellini are stuffed with a princely blend of ricotta, mozzarella, parmesan and aromatic tallegio, sautéed in a light cream sauce, dusted with parmesan and gratineed – perfect comfort food from the valleys of the Italian Alps. If manicotti rather than tortelloni are on the menu, this wonderful blend awaits within.
It was hard to choose from among the entrees – we had a magnificent tilapia filet, crusted with zucchini and chopped shrimp, baked in a scampi sauce that was fantastic. Also, the jumbo shrimp, stuffed with fontina and wrapped in smoked bacon in a creamy brandy sauce are outstanding.
Chicken, whether Cacciatore or lightly-herbed, crusted with walnuts in a red wine reduction, is moist and tender and all the vegetables, broccoli, carrots or roasted potatoes, are perfectly cooked to color and texture.
By the way, the home-made lasagna will make you run away from home, to eat here.
Manager Alex Rio is justifiably proud of his menu, spotless kitchen and a simple, light dessert dish of his own creation, for which he is seeking a name.
If you come up with the perfect name for this delightfully refreshing scoop of lemon sorbet, laced with Midori melon liqueur, he’ll reward you with a complimentary dinner for two.
Giovanna also holds court over desserts; besides the Napoleon cake, crème brûlé they have a chocolate mousse cake with fresh berries that features the long-neglected and very-much-missed cold Zabaione.
They will also whip up this airy delight of beaten egg yolks, sugar and sweet red wine, warm to-order if you request. This is a case where the Ducal dining outranks the cholesterol count.
Treat yourself like royalty – go to Ducale Ristorante.
Ducale Ristorante Italiano
12-53 150th Street
Whitestone, NY
718-767-4699
Tuesday through Sunday 3 to 10 p.m.
Closed Monday
Three-course Prix Fixe Dinner $25 plus tax
Full Bar; parties to 25 in private room
Master, Visa, American Express
Meter parking until 7 p.m. except Sunday
12-53 150th Street
Whitestone, NY
