It’s not often that a Canadian outpost of any kind gets positive feedback from a tough New York crowd, but things have certainly been on the up-and-up for our Northern neighbors with the opening of M. Wells Diner in Long Island City.
A classic 1950’s diner with a boxy steel exterior and very indiscreet signage, M. Wells leaves much to the imagination, almost to the point where you’re tempted to bypass it. But you have to trust your instincts and just go in, for inside lies a world of culinary inventiveness that’s anything but run of the mill.
The first thing you notice when you step into M. Wells is the crowd – though still in its soft opening, this place doesn’t lack customers. On a typical weekday during lunch time, you’ll find it packed with nearly all the booths, the rustic communal tables and the counter top up front packed to the seams. The latter is the best place to sit if you want to observe the action in the kitchen. It’s almost like getting a front row seat in live theater, observing the talent (in this case, the chefs) up close and personal as they prepare some of the most interesting dishes your palate has experienced.
M. Wells’ menu houses an eclectic mix of breakfast and lunch food. If breakfast strikes your fancy, you can try a classic egg sausage sandwich with melted cheddar cheese and pickled jalapenos on a homemade English muffin; a Spanish-style omelet or what they call a Tortilla with potatoes, onions, peas and ham; or their most popular breakfast dish, the Egg Tomato Pot, which is a baked egg in a deep, rich tomato stew, served with crusty bread.
But if your palate craves something non-traditional, there’s that too. You can get a side of pickled pork tongue served simply with mustard and soda crackers or their piece-de-resistance special, the Patee Chinois, which is a Quebecan version of shepherd’s pie, with braised pork tongue, fresh corn kernels and a heap of creamy mashed potatoes and crusty parmesan cheese on top. Irresistible and comforting, it’s a dish that’ll bring your taste buds into submission.
Ending your experience on a sweet note is recommended. Whether you choose a rich frozen custard in vanilla, chocolate or banana flavors; a classic banana cream pie; a selection of homemade cookies or a Canadian spin on crepes made of buckwheat and slathered in maple syrup, you can’t go wrong.
So far, making a big impression in LIC, M. Wells is paving the way for new culinary mavericks that aren’t afraid to take risks to achieve big rewards.
