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Bamonte’s – a legend of a restaurant

It may be in an out-of-the-way location, but for almost 100 years, Bamonte’s has been a destination, and no wonder. If you want signature Italian dishes and sauces, this is the place to dine.

Now a third generation owner, Laura, the granddaughter of the founder, has created fabulous desserts that alone are worth the trip. Although there was a discussion as to whether the site is in Greenpoint or Williamsburg, it sits one block from the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway with a large parking lot, making it easy once you arrive in the now very sexy neighborhood that has been gentrified. Here the guests may be trendy, but the classical Italian cuisine has remained the same.

There is a long bar where some patrons may eat. The dining room is filled with family and guests’ photos, taken over decades, with the founding mother’s photo at the entrance sending the message that this is still a family-run operation.

We were invited by friends for a dinner party and it turned out to be a feast, each of us ordering different dishes so I was able to do a bountiful tasting. After cocktails and crusty bread and bruschetta we were presented with clams on the half shell and baked clams oreganata, topped with light but flavorful breadcrumbs. The mussels marinara was also a knockout, the sauce was so tasteful. The grilled octopus was perfectly prepared and both juicy and crispy.

We soon were on to the salad. There are six choices – I had the classic arugula, radicchio and endive in a light vinaigrette dressing. Of course the signature pasta dishes are not to be missed. The linguine with white clam sauce was scrumptious as was the traditional spaghetti and meatballs. The large but light meatballs were covered in a flavorful red sauce. That night there were also soft shell crabs presented on a bed of spaghetti that was perfection.

We ate slowly because the main courses awaited us. The seafood Fra Diavolo was a knockout and the portion easily enough for two or three! The shrimp clams, mussels and calamari were in a spicy tomato sauce that required sopping up with the delicious warm bread because it was so delicious. I had the whole striped bass and it was just how I like it, crispy on the outside and juicy and tender on the inside.

Of course there are many choices from the grill and we had tender broiled lamb chops and a tender, juicy London broil. The entrees are served with potatoes and vegetables, and we had the escarole sautéed in garlic and oil. My friend had the classic Veal Scaloppine with mushrooms and a smile lit up her face with every bite.

Of course we knew that dessert awaited us and so I came to taste the best berry “pie” I ever had. Laura Bamonte created this creamy, sweet, luscious dish. I asked her for the recipe so I can share it with you, my readers. Stay tuned. There are other choices of course but this one is “it .”

Being just over the Queens border is no reason not to visit — try it, you’ll love it.

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