Barrington’s: Enjoy a taste of merry old England

By Carol Brock

BARRINGTON'S

199-02 Jericho Turnpike
New Hyde Park, L.I.
516-775-1888 fax 516-488-3815

The meal was memorable. Where? Barrington's. The name has an English ring to it and the setting won't disappoint either. You'll find it rambling with cubbyholes, fireplaces, candle light all over and three spacious, distinctive dining rooms – four dining areas in all.

The bar room is very British, the very model of an elegant pub. Of course there's a fireplace and stained glass and a library room next to the bar.

On the east side of Barrington's there's a dining room with a brick-walled, step-up terrace. It's dark green with lots of white woodwork and a wild, rose patterned carpet – shades of merry old England.

But perhaps the party room with its winding staircase and balcony and the Alpine look stole the new owner's heart away. Hans and Rosalie Elinger bought Barrington's and opened there six months ago. They've added German flair to an American Continental menu.

Previously Hans had owned a pub in Glendale for 25 years. Petite Rosalie has joined him as Barrington's hostess.

The chef, John Brutkeiwitz with an Austrian/Polish background, is out of Texas with credentials coming from time spent in kitchens in Washington, D.C.

Our memorable meal began with two outstanding appetizers. The stuffed mussels were steamed jumbo New Zealand mussels on the half-shell topped with a colorful, finely chopped mix of celery, carrot and tomato. The unexpected addition of bright flecks of light green broccoli will delight all foodies.

These new twists to preparing the usual make dining at Barrington's eminently worthwhile. Take, too, the smoked boneless brook trout that my dining companion had. It was a topless half of a deep mahogany color and deep flavor, served with a fine horseradish sauce. The texture of the trout was firm and intriguing. A slice of tomato topped with hard-cooked egg added a perky garnish.

The serving was large and she doggie bagged half to serve later with honeydew.

With another stomach we would have tried the grilled peasant bread with shrimp or chicken and blackened tuna tidbits served with a teriyaki glaze. Now that the weather is warming, please note that fresh spinach salad may be substituted in any shrimp or chicken Caesar salad – good editing, Chef.

We nibbled on our halved loaf of French bread served on a board with a knife thrust in the center as our entree was set before us by a very engaging young server. This shrimp and scallop Napoleon flaky puff pastry layered with champagne sauce was a dish to set before British aristocracy. The simplicity of using one large ballooned square of puffed pastry added elegance and lightness. So nice to go Continental and have a champagne sauce once again. Saffron rice was an added complement to the sauce.

Cajun roast loin of pork with green peppercorn sauce was an array of thin pork slices with a sauce dotted with green peppercorns, the rage a while back and now forgotten by almost all the chefs, but not John Brutkeiwitz. The accompanying baked potato was perfection. Never did an Idaho taste so good. A medley of green and yellow veggies was on the side.

We sinned. Barrington brownie explosion is an ultra creamy, fudgey brownie presented with two mini scoops of chocolate chip ice cream and adorned with rosettes of whipped cream. We also ordered the triple chocolate layer cake – thin, creamy, fudgey layers with chocolate frosting and chocolate sauce.