1999: Papazzio closes in August and reopens Oct. 8 after an extensive renovation.
By Carol Brock
PAPAZZIO
39-38 Bell Blvd., Bayside
229-1962, Fax 229-0418
1990: Papazzio opens! The Times-Ledger is the first to review it.
1999: Papazzio closes in August and reopens Oct. 8 after an extensive renovation.
“It's been a great 10 years,” mused Dominick, the proprietor, “but the place looked tired and I felt I owed it to my customers.”
For this reviewer, the new look is, simply and succinctly, Upper East Side. Call it Tuscan. Call it wine cellar ambiance.
In 1993 Dominick took a course with Kevin Zarally, wine master of Windows on the World. Wine is Dominick's passion and it shows. Brick lined alcoves are peppered with bottles and wine glasses. The white table cloths, paper covered, with white napkins, are the perfect foil for the ample red wine goblets at each place setting. A wine cooler stands in the rear holding the house white wine that's brought to the table and poured, a posh touch. Posh, too, is the viewable kitchen behind casement windows, flanked by an espresso prep niche.
With an unusually high ceiling, the dark wood chairs and satin-finished dark wood floor add an air of aristocracy. The bar, understated as bars go, has a vineyard hanging above the rear mirror. The doors across the front are opened on a warm day, and then customers feel it's like being in Italy, especially since the sidewalk is brick and there are old fashioned lamp posts and flowers circling the black windshield out front.
When we visited, there were a half-dozen rust colored chrysanthemums plus a few gold. The blooms are changed with the season – poinsettias, coming up.
The menu hasn't changed much. Dominick redesigned it to make it easier to read. There are a few new items like chicken bianco made with fresh artichoke hearts, tomatoes and mushrooms in a white wine sauce. Baby lamb chops are encrusted with seasoned bread crumbs and dijon mustard. And penne trio has spinach, chicken and sun-dried tomatoes in a white wine sauce.
My luncheon with grilled shrimp wrapped in prosciutto, smothered with pesto sauce centered with barely warm, chopped tomatoes, was magnificent. And the thick, moist chunks of homemade faccico (it varies – black olives, capers, dried tomatoes) to dip in a small dish of virgin olive oil sprinkled with black pepper was delectably dipable, and would be a perfect accompaniment to a glass of red wine. Insalata di pomodora, a salad of cut-up Romaine topped with a dressing thick with finely chopped tomatoes, chopped basil, red onions and slivered mozzarella was another great first course.
The pasta special of the day was fettucini with broccoli rabe (deliciously clever), sun-dried tomatoes and salmon. (My one admonishment to the chef – please lighten up on the olive oil.)
The waiter brought the dessert tray displaying four wedges of cake: cappuccino, chocolate mousse, cheese and an Oreo cookie. The cappuccino was good, but I would have preferred the tiramisu, which is more of a pudding with lady fingers served in a champagne glass. Or the chocolate Oreo mousse. They are on display at dinner. Better yet, the cappuccino is served at Papazzio accompanied by a rock candy swizzle stick or two if you ask, and people do.
For takeout or in-house dining there are family-style portions which serve two hearty appetites and four not-so-hearty ones. And continuing his passion with wine, Dominick is in the process of building (himself) a wine room downstairs for private parties of 10. I'll drink to that.
On your check, you're requested to indicate whether the service was poor, good, or excellent. I marked excellent and meant it. And it continued: Live music on Wednesday and Thursday evenings.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Renovated last year with an Upper East Side, Tuscan wine cellar look. Service to match. Tuscan cuisine with the old favorites and a few new items. Regular or family size portions for take-out and dine-in. Live music on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Valet parking six days.
CHEF'S CHOICE
Vongole al Forno (clams topped with bread crumbs in a lemon sauce, signature dish)..$8
Saltimbocca di Vitello…$16
Polio Bianco (sauteed medallions of chicken, artichoke hearts, mushrooms, tomatoes in white wine sauce)…$15
Rigatoni alla Messinase (chicken, mushrooms and spinach in creamy marinara sauce)…$13 Penne ala Vodka (fresh tomatoes in a creamy, pink vodka sauce)…$9
Tiramisu (with lady fingers, served in
champagne glass)…$5
Food: Tuscan
Setting: Tuscan wine cellar, old-fash
ioned light posts
Service: Excellent. White shirt, dark
trousers, apron
Hours: L Mon. to Fri. D 7 days
Reservations: Yes
Parking: Valet Mon.-Sat.
Dress: Neat casual
Children: Accommodated
Takeout: Yes
Off-premise catering: Yes
Private parties: To 70
Noise level: Moderate
Smoking: None
Music: Jazz and classical. Live music
Wed. and Thurs.
Handicapped access: Yes
