By W. Joseph Moore
1611 Sheepshead Bay Road 718.648.8600 Cuisine: Eastern European/Asian Rating: *** (4-star rating based on value, food quality, ambiance and service) For those who may have shied away from “Russian” restaurants until now – due to perceived language barriers, price considerations, geography – a visit to Rendezvous is in order. The Sheepshead Bay eatery is welcoming, accessible and affordable. The interior is really red, giving the room a kind of exotic, cabaret type feel. The back of the room features a huge TV screen with videos syncing to the sound system, a bandstand and a silver disco ball suspended from the ceiling. The full effect combines for a festive aura. There’s an inviting six stool bar near the entrance. Elegant gold statues, chandeliers, oversized abstract oil paintings and soft, techno pulsing out of the sound system create a very euro-avante garde atmosphere. Rendezvous seats somewhere between 60 and 70. The service on this evening, a young lady who also served as bartender, was casual and friendly. Well versed in English and the menu, she provided in-depth answers to any and every question regarding the cuisine. And always with a smile. The appetizer was put down just minutes after the soup had arrived, but otherwise all courses arrived in good order. The menu had English names and descriptions for each item. In every way the service experience was certainly pleasant. The food was equally pleasant. The meal started with Shourpa ($4.95). This lamb soup was served hot, and in a medium sized bowl. The simple white bowl contained three chunks of tender lamb along with potatoes, scallions, chick peas and red pepper. The amount of vegetables was not overwhelming, but enough to qualify the soup as hearty. The broth was semi-clear and managed to remain rather light, despite the lamb and vegetables. The appetizer was Escargots ($5.95). Six very tender and tasty snails – around the size of a thimble – were awash in a delicious buttery sauce, and covered with melted cheese sprinkled with fresh parsley. Calories aside, this appetizer was sinfully delectable. Unfortunately, as mentioned before, it was delivered while the soup was still being finished. So by the time it was eaten it had cooled substantially. The entree was Chicken Stroganoff ($10.95). A creamy white sauce featured chunks of tender chicken and a pile of equally tender mushrooms. It was seasoned well. The plate also included a dollop of yellow rice, tomato and onion slices, and two varieties of cabbage – one white and cut into strings, the other was yellow and chopped into chunks. Each provided a tangy contrast to the smooth stroganoff. The dessert, Tiramisu, equalled the quality of the previous courses. The serving – chocolate powder on top, dark chocolate cake on bottom, creamy and sweet white center – was about the size of a baseball cut in half. While there was no one facet to Rendezvous that reached the level of exceptional, each component – atmosphere, service, food quality – was of fine quality. And with extremely competitive pricing, it’s a restaurant that certainly deserves a visit.
