By Suzanne Parker
In our borough of forever waxing and waning ethnic enclaves, there are still some constants. There are still great Greek seafood restaurants going strong in Astoria. The most recent arrival making its case with aplomb is Akti on 30th Avenue.
Akti has an upscale vibe with middle-of-the-road prices. They give more than a nod to an aquatic theme with a waterfall at the entrance, white beach-pebble-covered walls and a blue-lit, glowing, Plexiglas panel of embedded seashells over the bar.
The fare here is Greek with Cypriot undertones, reflecting the origins of the management. The appetizers, or “mezedes,” as they would say, occupy the lion's share of the real estate on the menu. A little bread with Greek extra virgin and balsamic served with some excellent kalamata olives gets you in the mood for what's to come. We went from dipping into olive oil to lovely, salty taramosalata, our favorite Greek spread.
In case you thought Greek salad was the only kind Greeks ate, check Akti's selection. Five different salads are offered, none of which are the old standby. Pantzarosalata, made up of red and gold baby beets, cherry tomatoes, romaine, hard boiled eggs and green olives, deftly balanced sweet with savory flavors. It is very substantial and would make a satisfying summer meal by itself, and is perfect for sharing as a starter.
Two dishes that betrayed the Cypriot connection were grilled haloumi cheese and horiatiko loukianiko. Haloumi cheese is a Cypriot goat cheese that has the interesting property of not melting when heated. It's served here as an appetizer with tomatoes in pita bread. The horiatiko loukaniko, described as “Cypriot village sausage,” is made from a combination of lamb and pork, grilled over coals. It had a nice flavor, but was somewhat dry and overcooked.
Rolo melitzanas, eggplant rolls stuffed with vegetables and cheese, were pure heaven, and would make a perfect vegetarian entrée.
We were disappointed with the grilled octopus, which was a little mealy and rubbery, probably also from overcooking. Gotta watch those hot grills with an eagle eye.
We checked out the entrees displayed in the refrigerated counter in the rear of the restaurant in their unadorned state. In contrast to some of the more elaborate appetizers, all the mains are grilled over coals. We bypassed the alluring steaks and chops in favor of the life aquatic. The fish were all bright-eyed and intact.
We chose the Mediterranean sea bass called “lavraki” here, or “branzino” if you were to encounter it in an Italian establishment. It is grilled and slathered with olive oil and a little oregano and salt. They will filet it for you or serve it bones and all as per your preference. One fish is ample for two diners, especially two that had been stuffing themselves with the appetizers.
This is an example of sometimes the simplest preparation being the best. It lives or dies on the quality of the fish, and, in this case, it got up and danced. The flesh was moist, sweet and a touch smoky from the grill. The accompanying Greek potatoes were like jumbo home fries, treated to a hefty dose of lemon and sprinkled with cheese and oregano. It was a winning combination. Add a side of horta (dandelion greens) if you don't mind a little bitterness, or grilled asparagus if you do.
Our final indulgence was a slab of galaktoboureko, a custard-filled Greek confection bound with filo dough, well worth every calorie.
The Bottom Line
The acid test of a seafood restaurant is the freshness of its fish, and Akti passed with flying colors. Any neighborhood, even Astoria, can always use another good Greek seafood restaurant, and in Akti they got one with elegance and style.
Akti
34-19 30th Ave., Astoria
718-721-3530
Cuisine: Greek/Cypriot
Setting: Small, nicely appointed
Service: Friendly, professional
Hours: Lunch & dinner daily
Alcohol: Wine & beer
Reservations: Optional
Parking: Street
Dress: Casual
Children: Welcome
Takeout: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Noise Level: Acceptable
Handicap Accessible: Yes
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