By Suzanne Parker
Just when we thought we had encountered all the varied cooking styles of Thailand on offer in Queens, a new eatery comes along to burst our bubble.
We’ve scarfed curries of the south, the sticky rice steamed in banana leaves of the north and even the slightly less ubiquitous larbs of Issan (northeastern) kitchens. We’ve gobbled Thailand’s most famous dish, pad Thai, many times, but without the slightest inkling that it derived from yet another example of Thai culinary inventiveness—boat noodles.
Boat noodles were originally sold by hawkers from boats floating in Bangkok’s former extensive network of canals (khlongs), hence the name. Boat noodles were served in small bite-sized bowls so the noodles wouldn’t spill out on the choppy canal. In contemporary Thailand, this practice has translated into diners ordering multiple snack-sized bowls, and stacking them as they empty them.
So along comes this Astoria newcomer, Pye Boat Noodle, to introduce this treat to Queens.
According to its Facebook page, “Pye in Thai means paddles, the essential tools used to guide small wooden boat carrying noodle soup along the canal of Thailand.”
The eateries’ owners have decked out their digs to resemble an old bar in an old time Thai canal boat. Weather permitting, you can also slurp your noodles in the rear garden, accompanied by the gurgle of a fountain.
Pye has a full bar, including some interesting Thai-themed cocktails.
Snacks is the category that passes for starters here. Two of them, dumplings filled with pork, shrimp and jicama, and taro rolls, filled with glass noodles and Chinese cabbage, were uninterestingly bland, saved only by their respective dipping sauces which would have been equally tasty on our fingers. A third, salted wings, fried, split mid-wing with spicy salt, got our attention. They were the perfect crunchy, salty bar food, with a predictably incendiary dipping sauce.
The draw here, is, without question, the boat noodles. They are offered as a mix ‘n’ match of various protein and broth combinations with a choice of rice, wide ribbon, or egg noodles or vermicelli. There is some flavor overlap between the beef and pork versions, as both come in intensely flavorful spicy sour broths redolent with cinnamon and star anise. They also come with bouncy chewy little meatballs of indeterminate provenance in addition to slices of the advertised meat. Both go best with rice noodles.
Prefer your noodles dry, or at least not in broth? Again, it’s mix ‘n’ match, this time with choices of vegetable or tofu available for non-meat eaters. Our plateful of kee mao with shrimp was mostly stir fried broad noodles topped with a scattering of few intact shrimp, assorted veggies, and graced with a lovely strand of green peppercorns. The noodles turn the burn into a pleasing afterglow.
The last category of mains is over rice. We opted for squid prik khing curry, a dry preparation with long bean, long hot chili and the kind of lime leaves whose name it is no longer PC to mention. If you are wondering, we recently learned that “kaffir” is equivalent to the “n-word” in post colonial Southeast Asia. Makrut lime is becoming the acceptable replacement. The accompanying mound of rice was crowned with a deep fried egg. This beautifully balanced curry literally danced in our mouth with its brightness.
As of our visit, Pye Boat Noodle was not serving dessert, but was considering the possibility in the future. In the meantime, assuage your sweet tooth with a Thai iced coffee or tea.
The Bottom Line
Think of Pye Boat Noodle if you crave something different and delicious. It makes the perfect I-know-this-cute-little-place cheap date. It combines affordability, fun atmosphere, and yummy exotic food.
Suzanne Parker is the TimesLedger’s restaurant critic and author of “Eating Like Queens: A Guide to Ethnic Dining in America’s Melting Pot, Queens, N.Y.” She can be reached by e-mail at qnsfoodie@aol.com.
Pye Boat Noodle
35-13 Broadway, Astoria
(718) 685-2329
Price Range:
Cuisine: Thai boat noodle
Setting: Faux Thai retro canal boat
Service: Friendly young staff
Hours: Open seven days: 11:30 a.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Reservations: No
Alcohol: Full bar
Parking: Street
Dress: Casual
Children: Welcome
Music: No
Takeout: Yes
Credit cards: All
Noise level: Acceptable
Handicap accessible: Yes
