Taverna Chani: Simple and real dining

By Carol Brock

TAVERNA CHANIA
25-01 Ditmars Blvd., Astoria
721-9440

For four years the taverna has been at the corner of Ditmars and Crescent. And for seven years previously, it was across the street.

This small taverna with a red tile floor has white paper topped rectangular tables and straight-backed black chairs. It's wood up to the chair rail and then white walls to the ceiling.

A small replica of Greek vessel is on one wall and a review on the other and not much else except for a carved wooden sign in Greek that hangs across midway.

You can view Andres, the chef/owner performing at the range, a steel one. It's his show, solo, with a young lad occasionally appearing briefly on the scene. Andres sports an impressive handle bar mustache (ala Salvador Dali who has written and illustrated two notable cookbooks) and long straight hair. The mustache is salt and pepper gray and with his girth, he could double for Chicago's famed Hungarian chef, Louis Szathmary.

Georgia, Andres' wife, seated us, took the order, carefully checking (since we were not Greek) to be sure that we ordered what we really meant – and she takes the cash, no credit cards here. It's simple and it's real.

A super efficient waiter does the rest. I loved his finesse in sliding the paper off the table when clearing for another setting.

The menu is short and simple. Taverna Chania's Greek salad is unique, consisting of cucumber, tomato, feta cheese (all in huge chunks) and sliced onions sans greens. Now when I say big, I mean the size of the blue cube Grandma used to whiten her wash – that's big.

Our appetizer selection was octopus, baked cheese and dzadziki to go with the thick, crusty slices of excellent bread. The cuts of octopus, thick as your finger and about a half inch long, were grilled and sprinkled with dried oregano. I loved the chewiness and herbiness. The huge slab of Greek cheese, battered and fried like every dish on the menu, was adorned with inch wide wedges of lemon. Lemon does great things for grilled cheese. The cucumber dip was made with shreds of cucumber in an ultra thick sour cream-like mix. It was ultra rich and irresistible.

Cod, with the traditional mashed potato garlic dip, was cut into fingers, batter dipped and fried. Two men at the next table evidently approved and ordered it as well. The contrast of the cold dip to the hot cod is appealing.

The review posted on the wall (we happened to be seated right under it) began: “Simple and superb.” That describes, precisely, our lamb chops – three rib chops jauntily set on a heap of great thumb-thick steak fries. The chops were crisp, slightly charred around the edge. They tasted the way lamb chops used to taste.

There was fish to the right of us and fish to the left of us. One diner had two small whole fish. Another two enjoyed flounder fillets. There was the whole fish, head and tail intact, for which Greeks are justly famed and there were fish steaks. And of course there was the ever present gargantuan lemon wedge.

Only American coffee is served. And although the honey and walnut yogurt dessert sounded simply enticing, we decided to have coffee elsewhere.

On Ditmars down the way, at a cafe, tables were out front. (It was a warm October night with a harvest moon, to boot) and men were sitting there. Inside, seated at small round chrome tables, on small chrome chairs, couples were having cappuccino and Creek coffee in Salbucco Romano demi cups. Greek pastries were in the glass cases. And the large triangle of Baklava, served with a sharp pointed knife, had lots of nuts.

Another offering, a shredded wheat, syrup soaked base, was shrouded in frosting and capped with a candled cherry, was new to me. It had a Greek name but, after three attempts to decipher, I christened my “Greek fusion dessert” and very nice it was. Cookies seemed to be a favorite here. Greek music was on a tape. Cafe Camala, too, was simple, low glitz and very real.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Simple Greek taverna with simple food excellently prepared. Excellent service. Dinner only. Cash only.

CHEF'S CHOICE

Octupus…$10

Salata Horiatiki

(large/small)…$10/$6

Red Snapper…$18

Broiled Shrimp…$18

Beef Steaks Greek Style…$9

Yogurt with Honey and

Walnuts…$6

Food: Greek taverna