Fincan: A passage to India via Rego Park

By Suzanne Parker

I chose Raj Gate, a newish Indian restaurant occupying the former quarters of a Spanish restaurant. There are lots of restaurants and lots of turnover on this stretch of Queens Boulevard, although I seem to remember the Spanish place being there a pretty long time.

My first impression of Raj Gate was that they hadn't done much redecorating since its Spanish incarnation, and it smelled kind of musty. That didn't do much to raise my expectations.

While consulting the menu, I was brought pappadums (those crispy-fried seasoned chick-pea wafers) and room-temperature tap water. My companion ordered a martini. They have a full bar (happily for her) and I don't recommend the water. My martini drinking friend gave her seal of approval to their mix.

The menu is extensive – the Indian equivalent of a Greek dinner. The emphasis is on the milder northern Indian and Punjabi dishes, although the list included some vindaloo and madras-style dishes as well. The waiter encouraged us to order the Raj Gate special dinner, which includes assorted appetizers, soup, main course, rice, dal, bread, vegetable, condiments, dessert and tea or coffee. It sounded like a pretty good deal and is being offered at 20 percent off as an opening special, so we went for it.

The appetizer assortment included a vegetable somosa (a fried pastry encased turnover filled with a spiced potato and vegetable filling), a vegetable and a banana pakora (fritter), and a begun bhaji (a battered fried eggplant slice). They are served with the traditional condiment selection of coconut chutney, tamarind sauce and onion raita. The appetizers were not as hot as they could have been when brought to the table, and as a result, were not as crisp as they should have been. The flavors were passable, but with anything deep fried, its all in the timing.

An excellent mulligatawny soup came next. Picture minestrone with a curry flavor and you've got this Indian standby. Theirs was a fairly gentle version, but nicely seasoned.

For our main courses we chose one familiar dish and one new to us. The familiar one was the tandoori mixed grill. It was presented on a sizzling platter, and the meat was flavorfully spiced, tender and juicy the way it should be.

The chicken pasanda is a mild dish perfect for a diner with fear of spicy food. It is subtly spiced and creamy. Its rich sauce combines ground almonds, cashews, cream cheese, and red wine. For someone who's a newbie to Indian cuisine, this dish affords an opportunity to ease into its pleasures slowly without being overwhelmed by its use of spices. Both entrees are accompanied by portions of mixed vegetables in a curry sauce, dal (lentil sauce) and pilaf rice.

The dinner also includes a choice of Indian breads. We chose nan (baked to order in the tandoori oven) and poori (a fried whole wheat balloon that deflates as it cools). The menu boasts an especially large assortment of filled and flavored breads that sound worthy of future exploration. For example, keema nan, that is tandoori bread stuffed with minced lamb, sounds like it would make and ideal quick lunch or snack. Next time.

There are several Indian desserts to choose from. Indian sweets are something of an acquired taste, as they tend to be sweet in the extreme, sometimes with rosewater overtones. The “safe” desserts here are the Kulfi (Indian pistachio ice cream) or mango ice cream. Who doesn't like ice cream? You can't go wrong with those palate coolers. If you're feeling more experimental, go with the rasmali or gulab jamanj.

The Bottom Line

This restaurant is a decent choice for local folks looking for another option for a tasty, reasonably priced meal to eat in or take out. They offer an all-you-can-eat buffet lunch for $7.95 and lunch boxes to go. It is not, by far, the best Indian to be had in the borough, but offers an opportunity to get acquainted with the cuisine. The emphasis is on mild here, so if you're looking for really spicy, be insistent with the waiter, or eat elsewhere.

Raj Gate

95-26 Queens Blvd., Rego Park

718 896-6945

Cuisine: Indian

Setting: Dark, not particular in tune with the cuisine.

Service: Adequate

Hours: L & D Daily

Reservations: not necessary

Parking: Street

Dress: Casual

Children: Family atmosphere

Takeout: Yes