30 Cutter Mill Road, Great Neck, L.I.
516-773-2000</center></b>
I like the sound of it: “The Giraffe Room at the Inn of Great Neck.”
And I like getting out of a car under a sky-lighted canopy,…
By Carol Brock
<center><B>THE GIRAFFE ROOM AT THE INN OF GREAT NECK
30 Cutter Mill Road, Great Neck, L.I.
516-773-2000</center></b>
I like the sound of it: “The Giraffe Room at the Inn of Great Neck.”
And I like getting out of a car under a sky-lighted canopy, turning the keys over to a valet then strolling into the lobby of a small hotel. It doesn’t hurt if it’s an art deco lobby (with a Gatsby-like mural on high) backed by a glassed-in bar. If the bar is big-city plush, so much the better.
Now, the day we went, it was Sunday brunch time. The bar had been converted into a buffet area complete with chef at the omelet/waffle station. With a tall giraffe to the right and another about as tall to the left, we entered the dining room and were seated in the portion under the skylight, quite appealing on a Sunday afternoon.
The new $19.50 brunch includes fruit juices, a mimosa or Bloody Mary. On the first trip to the buffet we luxuriated in smoked salmon ringed with smoked white fish, wonderful shrimp, a tossed salad, bagels with “schmears,” and assorted Danish. Hot items were sampled next. We were late brunchers, arriving at 1:45, and hot things do not improve with age. The thick piece of fresh salmon was super and there was also chicken, bacon, hash browns, cheese ravioli and blintzes (which tasted better than they looked).
Two salmon-in-lieu-of-ham Eggs Benedict were delivered to my dining companion at the table. I looked approvingly as the omelet-maker plied his craft. Well-stuffed, luscious-looking ones were being rolled out. And Belgium waffles were in the making.
The neighboring dessert table displayed a pumpkin pie, a carrot cake and a chocolate cake (just OK). The pastry tray caught my eye. and the mini baba proved light, moist and lovely. Open the lid, and you find a version of French toast and the syrup to slather on it.
On the dark and dismal Tuesday when I came for lunch, the elegance of the room came through. The warm browns and blacks makes it befittingly “giraffe country.” The six sconces, each a different Tiffany hue, are striking. Rain forest-like cloths, with olive green khaki napkins bursting forth from each tall goblet, adds flair. There are six wine racks situated about the room behind smoked glass.
For the first time, as I nibbled on complimentary bruchetta, I noticed the handsome design of the salts and peppers. The Inn’s kitchen salad on an opaque black octagon glass plate was thumbs up — tender, young spinach leaves topped with a just-boiled chopped egg and diced tomato in a warm bacon, mustard honey dressing with a cheese filled bread stick alongside.
A Buffalo wrap — chicken breast marinated in spicy wing sauce with chopped tomato and bits of lettuce covered with Bleu cheese dressing — followed. It was delightfully served — halved on the diagonal, cut side up, on a bed of freshly made, ultra thin, skins on, shoestring french fries.
Dessert was a smooth, cool, coconut pudding. It slid down so easily, followed by good cappuccino in a cone shaped glass.
As for dinner, there’s a $19.50 pre fixe all night long (terrific) and of course, ala carte. (And in the European fashion, the tip is added to the bill.) On Wednesday through Saturday, there’s live jazz music from 8:30 to midnight.
And then, hand your ticket to the valet and wait inside in the Art Deco lobby with the Gatsby-like mural, until your car is delivered back under the canopy. That’s a touch of class.
<i>CHEF’S CHOICE </i>
Quesadilla with Grilled Chicken, Peppers, Onions and Cheeses…$6.50
Spinach and Artichoke Dip served with Tortilla Chips…S6.50
Trio of Hearts of Palm, Artichokes & Romaine in a Sherry Dressing…$7.50
The Inn’s Salad — Fresh Spinach with Warm Bacon, Honey Mustard Dressing Classic Seafood Paella with Spanish Rice…$13.95
Filet Mignon with a Toasted Shallot Merlot Sauce…$18.50
Cashew Breaded Chicken with a Bourbon Peppercorn Sauce…$10.50
Traditional Flan…$5.00
Tremblanque Coconut Custard…$5.00
Cuisine: American Continental
Setting: The Inn at Great Neck
Service: Pleasant
Hours: Brunch on Sun. B, L & D 7 days
Reservations: Yes
Parking: Valet
Location: Take Middle Neck Road, cross LIRR, turn left
Dress: Casual
Credit cards: All major
Children: Own menu
Private parties: To 250. Private room for 8.
Takeout: Yes
Off premises catering: Yes
Music: Live jazz in lounge Wed. through Sat.
Noise level: Moderate
Smoking: In lounge
Handicapped accessible: Yes
<i>THE BOTTOM LINE</i>
The Giraffe Room of a small hotel. Sunday brunch and pre fixe Sunday through Friday dinner. Live Jazz in lounge Wednesday through Sunday, American-continental cuisine. Pleasant service. Breakfast, lunch and dinner.
