It’s not often that a new restaurant becomes a “must eat” only a couple of months after its initial opening, but Whitestone has just such a place.
Trattoria Neo, short for “Neapolitan,” is an elegant Italian spot in the heart of Whitestone that, quite simply, you must make time for immediately. For within its doors you’ll find skilled craftsmen of food and drink offering dishes that will leave you believing you left Queens for the rustic Italian countryside.
Executive Chef Joseph D’Angelo, formerly of Union Square Café and co-owner of Spigolo on the Upper East Side, offers exciting and traditional menu options, priding himself on every dish.
For starters, D’Angelo recommends two of his creations, rice balls and the crispy eggplant “meatball.” To call it the greatest rice ball of all time would be an understatement – the breading possesses a crunch like no other, while within you’ll find risotto, prosciutto, and parmigiano cream. The crispy eggplant “meatball” is a fun and delicious vegetarian take on a classic creation.
Next, chef D’Angelo brought out a plate of thin-sliced prosciutto and bresola hams with fresh buffalo mozzarella, imported one day earlier from Italy. Perfectly salty, the ham matches up well with the fresh, creamy mozzarella cheese. Eat it with their freshly baked crusty bread for even more texture.
We’ve all had baked clams – heavy on the bread crumbs and light on the clams – but at Neo, it’s all about the fresh oceanic flavor. Chef D’Angelo emphasizes the clam by briefly cooking it in a salamander oven for about one minute. The result is a clam on the edge of raw with roasted garlic and sweet pepper butter – order these by the bed-full.
Neo has a rotating risotto dish that is based strictly on what chef D’Angelo feels like preparing. On this particular day, it was mushroom risotto complete with truffle oil for a welcoming, earthy flavor. The chef teased other versions of this dish, such as the blue crab and shrimp risotto.
At Neo, there are two kinds of pasta, freshly made and – as is the case with the fusilli – delivered straight from Italy. The must-get-dish on the past menu is the “Fusilli in the Style of Naples.” The fusilli sits atop fresh mozzarella and ricotta in tomato basil sauce. It sounds simple enough, but in the hands of a master, it’s turned into gastro-art.
And finally, Neo’s stuffed veal breast is as good as a young calf can get. The veal is braised for three hours and stuffed with pancetta, then served with soft polenta and braised escarole. This dish confirms all suspicions: There are few experiences in this world as pleasurable as enjoying food prepared by a master of his craft.
Whether it’s a quiet dinner for two or a party for 50, Neo’s is neighborhood newcomer with years of success ahead of it.
Trattoria Neo
15-01 149th Street
Whitestone, NY 11357
Tel: 718-767-1110
Email: trattorianeo@gmail.com
Hours: Lunch
Sunday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Dinner
Sunday through Wednesday, 5 to 10 p.m.
Thursday, Friday, Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.
Reservations: Yes
Full Bar: Yes
All Major Credit Cards Accepted
On and off site catering available
