PW’s Chowder House: There’s much more than chowder at PW’s

By Carol Brock

PW'S CHOWDER HOUSE

Brewer Capri Marina
5 Orchard Beach Blvd. Port Washington
516 767-7924 fax 516 767 6757

I asked brightly, “What does the P.W. stand for?” Our server replied, “Port Washington.” I covered my face, embarrassed, and chuckled.

We were seated in P.W.'s Chowder House on Manhasset Bay in the Capri Marina where Latitudes once was. The Hudson River Club group took over Latitudes and renovated with mahogany wood throughout, They opened up the bar area where you can dine at tables for two on high stools.

Pictures of old Port Washington were gotten from the Historical Society. Dining on the deck is prized and there is a 150-yard dock space for boats to tie up and dine. The entrance way has been brightened with paint, flowers and a large wooden duck cutout.

Since this was to be a casual restaurant, they christened it a chowder house. Chowders, three of them, are featured: a light, Southern-style with oysters, sweet potatoes and corn, their version of Manhattan chowder.

A seafood chowder, New England-style chowder which is based on thickened clam stock and served with oyster crackers.

The very American corn chowder, using Long Island corn, is ultra creamy and has lump crabmeat added. The chowders will change with the season and are served in oversized coffee cups set on a saucer. Marvin from the Hudson River Club presides over them.

The executive chef, Tommny McDonald, was formerly the sous chef at the Hudson River Club and so should deliver fine fare. He does.

We ordered grilled pineapple glazed tuna served with coconut rice and grilled fresh pineapple rings, wilted greens and cucumber ginger salad. The second entree was smoked Long Island duck, a boneless breast cut into fingers with a watercress and mango salad.

As we waited, a couple beside us had two enormous prime ribs set in front of them. “Pardon us for staring but they are astronomical.” “We had them last Friday and again last Saturday,” they admitted, “and we're having them tonight.”

I was happy. The mango complemented the duck to perfection and the tuna satisfied also, two thick chunks beautifully done and presented. The barbecued salmon is said to be a winner glazed with barbeque sauce with roasted onion, papaya and black bean salad. Crab cakes are served with red cabbage cole slaw and the broiled lobster with rice and carrot cucumber sambal.

Sandwiches and burgers (salmon, turkey or a half-pound beef burger) are an important part of the offerings. The super sandwiches are: Smoked shrimp served with sliced tomatoes, and basil vinaigrette. A club with grilled chicken breast, avocado, bacon and tomato on a brioche with basil mayonnaise. A steak sandwich with corn relish. A lobster BLT with smoked bacon on toasted brioche with basil mayonnaise. Or a soft shell crab sandwich with red cabbage slaw and lemon mustard mayonnaise. Each elevates sandwiches to a new level of dining.

There are nine dessert choices from fruit torte to fruit plate, to old-fashioned banana split, chocolate mousse cake, carrot cake, apple strudel and Key West lime pie. My cappuccino cheese cake was a two-layered affair with cheese on the bottom and cappuccino on top. Loved it and the Key West flavor and delicate green color of the Key lime pie scored.

The Chowder House is working on takeout food being delivered to the boats at the marina. Still in the break-in stage, at this point in time, service can be a bit frazzled on a Saturday night.

No reservations are taken on weekends but you'll enjoy waitng on the deck seated on a high stool beside a plank overlooking the boat scene. And on Friday and Saturday nights there's music which may turn you off or turn you on.

There's a children's menu with chicken fingers, penne pasta, PW's hamburger, hot dog, grilled cheese with french fries and PB and J, the all-American favorite.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Dockside dining at the Capri Marina. Fine American fare. Seasonal chowders. Enormous herb-crusted prime rib with peppercorn sauce. Casual boater (dock and dine) and family dining. Music Friday, Saturday and Sunday.