Dining Out: It feels like Italy

By Carol Brock

da Martino
60-06 Main St.
Flushing

353-0245

There's something about a fireplace that always adds charm to a dining experience.

There are fireplaces, and then there are fireplaces. Da Martino, taken over by Martino Pisani five months ago, can boast of one that's delightfully unique. It's stone and it's rustic, tower-like, with pointed top and two, side by side, rounded openings – the better to see the flames from all angles of the room.

The Monday night we supped, the fireplace was burning merrily. Bruschetta were placed on the table as we took in the square room: a small bar in the far corner, a series of metallic art visions of towns and animals hung on the white walls. An old-fashioned wooden side board held the dessert offerings.

There was no pretension here. The food was the thing. An old-fashioned print on the menu of wine makers from Bari in Puglia gives a hint that Martino imports red and white Castel del Monte by Ciafo from his home town.

For the zuppe del giorno, the excitement is in the presentation: an oval, white, stoneware platter (16 inches long) rimmed with chopped parsley. Both fish and veal were accompanied by roast red potatoes and zucchini and carrots).

And yes, there was dessert. Vanilla, chocolate and hazel nut ice cream are imported from Italy. A spoonful of hazel nut and I was in Italy again along the Arno eating ice cream, blissfully remembered 40 years later. Imported Bindi cakes, the plain grandmother cake and the Napoleon-like lemon tart await you.

Our dessert presentation was a delight: A slice of lemon tart, a scoop of hazel nut ice cream with three large red grapes dusted with confectioner's sugar all in a row beside them. (By the way, tiramisu and the Italian ricotta cheese cake are made in house.)

I had forgotten how good espresso can be. At da Martino, it's made with Moka d' Ore. A house-presented glass of sparkling Moscato made a festive finale. “I'll come again,” my dining companion said. And, if it's a Saturday night at 9, there's live music and dancing, And, come summer, a patio.

Soup of the day, was classic spinach and it was a top notch version. (Have you noticed, men seem particularly fond of soup as the introduction to a meal and my dining companion was pleased with da Martino.) I was blown away by the shrimp appetizer: three hefty shrimp wrapped with prosciutto, then grilled. Each was served draped with spinach pesto with minced fresh tomato alongside, the cold fresh contrasting with the hot. It shows the finesse of chef Alfredo from Puglia, assisted weekends by Corrado, Montero's son and Culinary Institute of America graduate.

We tasted that even more good things were to come, and split a salad of baby spinach with almonds, avocado and goat cheese, A light vinaigrette complemented the velvety leaves of young spinach nicely. Officially it was insalata di spinaci con formaggio di caprino, but would be very much at table in California.

Not wanting to miss the pasta , we split the fettucini delizia – fettucini served with sliced sausage, mushrooms, and artichokes in a pink sauce. One bite and we didn't have to ask if the pasta was homemade. And needless to say it was al dente.

Of the three veal selections on the menu (veal scallopine with prosciutto, eggplant and mozzarella in a light tomato sauce; a combo with shrimp and fresh herbs; veal cutlet breaded with fontina cheese). He decided on the first – vitello di carmela. I had pesci – fresh fillet of red snapper sauteed with onion, olives and plum tomatoes and basil.

The Bottom Line

Very fine Italian cuisine. Unique round, stone fireplace with twin openings. Simple decor. Fine professional service. Live music and dancing Saturdays at 9. Patio in summer.

Chef's Choice

Vongole Organata E Calamari Fritti (baked clams and fried calamari)…$7

Portobello Griglia (grilled portobello with balsamic vinegar)…$7

Shrimp with Balsamic Vinegar, Spinach Pesto and Chopped Tomato…$7

Insalata Bianco Con Fagiolini (mixed white salad with cannoli beans)…$5

Minestrone (vegetable soup)…$4.95

Farfalle with Mixed Seafood (bow tie pasta)…$10.95

Risotto Al Funghi Porcini Con Erbe (risotto with porcini and fresh herbs)…$14.95

Dentice Barese (fresh filet of red snapper with olives and plum tomatoes)…$18

Agnello al Barolo (baby lamb chops with portobello, rosemary and barolo wine sauce)…$22.95

Grandma Cake (imported bindi)…$5

Ricotta Cheesecake…$5