Mythos: Smiling waiters complete the experience at Mythos Greek restaurant

By Carol Brock

MYTHOS

196-29 Northern Blvd.
Flushing
357-6596

Peter, Paul and Anna. And the last name is Thedoropoulos. Two sisters, married two men (not related) with the same name. They bought and revamped Greek Mythos on Northern in Bayside. And there are smiles all around.

Two typical “Greek blue” rush-bottom chairs alongside cafe tables with a bottle of ouzo for effect are in the window catching the eye of passers by.

Although the look is authentic taverna (if I remember them correctly as we passed, way back when, in our rented car on the way to Delthi) with row after row of tables. The place seats 125 with a reception hall downstairs seating another 125. An open kitchen with grill and beehive brick oven is a new addition. It’s viewable beside the refrigerated day’s catch and trays of chops.

Up front there’s a small bar with two cafe tables and a coffee prep-bar. This is the Thedoropoulos’ “command post.”

The Theodoropouloses explain the name of their establishment this way: “The food is authentic, home-style Hellenic and is so good, it’s almost a myth.” I’ll go with that.

As we waited for our appetizer, I exclaimed, “Everyone is eating with such gusto!” At that instant we were gulfing down the excellent, thick slices of soft, chewy Greek bread that we dipped in a sauce dish of olive oil with patches of red Balsamic vinegar — terrific. If we had ordered the whipped combo of three spreads: roasted red peppers and feta cheese, red caviar with bread crumbs and olive oil and the herbed eggplant puree, we would have emptied not one but two baskets.

We were very happy with the combination plate of homemade Greek sausage, casseri cheese, cubed pork loin and peppers served in a wine sauce. My dining companion is a homemade-sausage man who spurns all others. I kept filching the cubes of casseri.

Chargrilled baby octopus (superbly prepared by Greek chefs); pan-fried baby squid; deep fried, battered codfish with a garlic dip; and charred fresh sardines in an oil and vinegar sauce beckoned, but I imbibed in baby eggplant whipped with olive oil and herbs.

Since potatoes and rice accompany the entree, we split a Greek salad, the classic which was newly interpreted by Mythos. Lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cucumbers and feta (crumbled) arrived as a tossed salad with the house dressing and oregano.

Not to be missed was our main course medley of lamb and artichokes in a lemon sauce surpassing the French blanquette de veau. It was served with a perfect complement — pilaf of rice with shredded carrot. Roast or barbecued half-chicken with olive oil, lemon and oregano, is a flavor blend that I can never get enough of. And neither can I resist potatoes bathed in lemon — or, a la Mythos, a side order of steak fries with lemon.

He approvingly noticed on the menu: “Delicately seasoned quail chargrilled.” I was happy to see bakaliar as an entree, the baked codfish dipped in batter, sauteed to a golden brown with a garlic-mashed potato dip; also shrimp sauteed in a wine sauce, then baked with feta and tomato glacee over rice (another fond, delectable, remembrance from that Greek trip).

The dessert, yogurt, incredibly thick, satin smooth, topped with Greek honey and a sprinkling of walnuts was luscious — I’m still mentally licking my spoon. His phylo crusted custard pastry? Well, I’ve had better. At one point during the meal he had noticed the multi-step preparation in making Greek coffee. “No wonder it’s $2.50,” he said.

And he ordered it — a first for him. I wondered what “Frape” would be like. Maybe next summer, this essentially foamed ice coffee, will taste more exciting than it did that cool night.

At Mythos we, too, ate, with gusto. And it was smiles all around.

CHEF’s CHOICE

Kopiniski (zesty combination of roasted red peppers h feta whipped to a fine spread)…S5.00

Boukes (“bakala” codfish dipped in battered, pan-fried to golden brown, served with garlic dip)…$8.75

Saragnaki (gently fried casseri cheese braised with cognac & set aflame)…$6.75

Bekri Mete (combination plate of homemade Greek sausages, casseri cheese, cubed pork loin & pepper served in wine

sauce)…$9.50

Kakopoulo (carved half chicken seasoned with olive oil, lemon h oregano)…$13.00

Brizola me Kakalo (tender rib steak with bone)…$19.00

Barides Mikrolimano (tender shrimp sauteed in wine sauce h baked with feta and tomato glacee)…$18.50

Cuisine: Authentic family style, Hellenic

Setting: Large taverna (125)