El Patio: Authentic Spanish cuisine arrives at El Patio

By Carol Brock

The very long, slender second floor of the restaurant lends itself beautifully to the heel clicking, skirt flashing, all smiles dancer. Tall, dark Asturia, with a black and white polka dot skirt, long fringed black shawl around the waist and black lace shrug, covers the distance with style, then adds a castanet finale. This takes place from 7:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. on Saturday as you sample tapas hot and tapas cold before lifting the round paella pan's cover and savoring El Patio's Spanish cuisine.

On Fridays there's live salsa from 9:30 p.m. and live Latin jazz on Thursdays. But any night is delicious. The tapas are that good! Compliments to chef Jose Bardena from the north of Spain.

My guest, as she waited at the high-ceilinged bar (the lounge area sofas are on their way) discussed the fine points of the margarita she intended to order (with salt, dry, no ice) ignoring three-month-old El Patio's invitation to, “Come try our already famous red and white sangrias.”

Seated upstairs, up front, she admired the simple square lighting fixtures and approved of the orange wall treatment. Selecting just the right tapas was serious business. There are seven cold and 32 hot. The servings are not the mini ones that I remembered from the Canary Islands, my last encounter, but are ample American appetizer sized. I thought the codfish balls were “fab” – creamy fingers, not the least bit “fishy” with a delectable dipping sauce nestled in curly kale leaves. By all means try them.

I can be almost equally enthusiastic about kebabs, Spanish style. Here cubes of pork strung with green pepper and onion are marinated in a “Spanish” seasoned sauce pungent with orange zest. The result: ultra moist and marvelous. As a kicker, a huge white asparagus spear is nestle alongside plus a whole pimento.

My companion went for the shrimp in garlic sauce tapas as an appetizer. They're served in a ceramic tapas dish with marinara or garlic sauce. Our very nice young waiter confided, “I like garlic sauce.” There are slices of crusty white bread to sop up pan juices which should not be missed.

Very possibly you'll want to round out the meal with another round of tapas.

If not, a large round, covered, aluminum paella pan will hold the main course. Mine was a seafood combination in a glorious white sauce – scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels, lobster, fish plus a scattering of peas. A side dish holds broccoli flowerettes and brown rice. Doggy bagging made for a superb saucing for the pasta. I'd be tempted to order it again just for the bonus.

My companion had shrimp in rice with green sauce on the side. Here's a dish that compliments a tapas start to perfection. The rice is very special and the green sauce adds great flavor, texture and even a splash of color.

Flan is on the menu for dessert. It's a nice-sized square centered in a pool of rich caramel sauce. A sprig of fresh green mint and a curl of orange garnish it delightfully. The Catalina cream was the Spanish version of creme brulee – a crisp caramel topcoat covering a layer of vanilla pudding. The coffee is American.

Since tapas are the heart and soul of El Patio's menu, let me go into more detail: Manila clams steamed, in green sauce, garlic sauce or Basque sauce; Spanish sausage grilled, in white wine, in hot sauce; Tripe Galician style or Madrid style; and Spanish omelet and boiled potato in hot sauce are some of the best sounding on the menu.

As for cold, there are artichokes, seasoned Spanish olives, Manchego cheese (which I adore), Serrano ham and Cantimpalo sausage.

It's your move.

THE BOTTOM LINE

A great night out! Flamenco Saturdays, salsa Fridays and Latin Jazz on Thursdays. European lounge and tapas bar restaurant. Fine food. Good service.

El Patio

40-09 Bell Blvd. Bayside

718-224-5929

Chef's Choice

Tapas/Cold & Hot:

Seasoned Asparagus (white)…$6

Cold Mixed Tapas…$9

Shrimps in Garlic Sauce…$8