Punta Sal: Forest Hills Peruvian fare delights tastebuds. 100-05 Metropolitan Ave. Forest Hills

By Suzanne Parker

Punta Sal is a beach resort on the northern coast of Peru in the province of Tumbes, and also the name of a chic new Peruvian restaurant on Metropolitan Avenue in Forest Hills.

This eatery has been open only slightly more than a month, but has already been discovered by the locals. Part of the credit for its appeal can be attributed to its stylish decor of rich-toned glazed walls punctuated by hand-crafted modern wall sconces and art. Gentle Andean music is played on the sound system. The effect is subtle and inviting.

Ambiance aside, the main attraction here is the food. The menu offers a selection of Peruvian dishes with, as you would expect at any seaside resort, an emphasis on fish and seafood.

While it describes its fare as Peruvian cuisine, deference to an Anglo sensibility can be detected. It is both less spicy and less greasy than what you would find at a place catering mainly to an ethnic clientele. If you prefer your food more spicy, you need only ask and a dish of excellent hot sauce will be provided. If the food isn’t greasy enough for you, that's your problem. See a doctor.

We scanned the menu while nibbling on complimentary tostones (crispy fried plantain chips) dipped in guacamole. The guacamole was of a thinner consistency than its Mexican counterpart, garlicky, with an undertone of chili — an auspicious beginning to our meal. The Peruvian-style Sangria that we sipped as we dipped our chips was made with wine and fruit juice and contained bits of diced apple, but didn’t pack much of a wallop. We hope that once they get their liquor license they will be serving Pisco sours, the Peruvian national cocktail.

Punta Sal’s offerings include regional dishes from all parts of Peru. Parihuela, a fragrant mixed seafood soup, and Chupe de Camarones, a creamy shrimp soup with vegetables, and a fried egg, both prepared with an aji (Peruvian chili pepper) stock are characteristic of the coastal cuisine. Both were pleasingly piquant and abundant with fresh seafood.

We were eager to sample Papa à la Huancaina (potatoes in cheese sauce), a famous Andean specialty. We found it disappointingly bland, with an unfortunate resemblance to boiled potatoes in cheesy Russian dressing. They need to “kick it up a notch,” as TV chef Emeril Lagasse might say. A better appetizer choice would be the Pulpo al Olivo, nicely seasoned octopus with rosemary in a Peruvian olive sauce. I also recommend the Tamalitos Verdes, corn tamales with cilantro stuffed with chicken or pork.

Whatever else you try here, the ceviche is not to be missed. This enduring 16th-century marriage of Spanish citrus fruit with South American seafood is one of Punta Sal’s most successful offerings. There are seven different varieties of ceviche on the menu. We chose the Ceviche Punta Sal. It was absolutely fresh tasting in a delicious, creamy house sauce.

Of the entrees we sampled, our favorite was the Camaron Al Ajillo, (shrimp in garlic sauce), which is served with saffron rice. Don’t confuse it with Arroz con Camarones, which was disappointing. Given Peru’s reputation for the greatest number of Chinese restaurants in South America, we thought they might have had a way with fried rice. Not so.

Tacu Tacu de Pescado (Sea bass filet with Peruvian style rice and bean risotto) is a specialty of Lima, and very flavorful. If you prefer a meat entree, the Chicharron (marinated roast pork) is very nicely seasoned and comes accompanied with mashed sweet potatoes and mixed greens.

Peruvians are also known for their Pollo à la Brasa (rotisserie chicken). It’s an enjoyable and economical choice, ideal for the less gastronomically adventurous. It’s also great as take-out. All of the menu items are available for take-out, but chicken can always be relied upon to travel well.

For dessert we chose flan. Its presentation was a treat for the eye as well as the palate. Other temptations include fried ice cream, and Empanada De Chocolate, a sweet corn empanada filled with chocolate accompanied by ice cream.

The Bottom Line

If you’re looking for absolutely authentic Peruvian food, keep looking. What you will find here is tasty, reasonably priced Peruvian style food adapted to the American palate, artfully presented in attractive surroundings.

Punta Sal

100-05 Metropolitan Ave.

Forest Hills

718-896-1001

Cuisine: Peruvian

Setting: Small and stylish

Service: Accommodating

Hours: L & D 7 days

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Parking: Street

Dress: Informal

Children: No Menu