Dee’s: More tables and more diners at Dee’s in Forest Hills

By Suzanne Parker

Dee's has been a deservedly popular spot for brick oven pizza and casual dining in Forest Hills since opening in 1993. Its food was always tasty and affordable, the ambiance cheery and staff friendly and efficient.

“Is there a catch?” You might well wonder.

There very definitely was. Its success made it difficult getting a table for dinner without waiting, especially on the weekends. Its small premises left little room for waiting, so the solution was to give the next shift of diners beepers, and suggest, in the nicest possible way, that they take a hike. This system was successful to the extent that the weather was balmy and the diners not too famished or impatient. It obviously had its limitations.

In some quarters of Forest Hills, there must have been rejoicing when word got out that Dee's was relocating across Metropolitan Avenue to much bigger digs. Not so fast. Demand seems to have kept pace, if not outstripped Dee's expansion. In the first couple of weeks in Dee's new premises, diners could be seen milling about outside during the peak dinner hours.

By the third week things seemed to have settled down a bit, and we were able to secure a table on a Tuesday night without a wait. The new Dee's is very much like the old Dee's in spirit. The décor is understated with minimal ornamentation, but manages to give off a lively upbeat vibe. The main visual focal points are the bar with mirrored backdrop on one side, and Dee's signature handcrafted wood burning oven on the other, turning out what Dee's is famous for. The exposed brick walls, while attractive, do nothing to mitigate the ambient noise that is inevitable in such a bustling establishment.

Dee's main agenda, brick oven pizza and pasta, is synonymous with Italian cuisine. Dig a little deeper and another influence emerges. The family that owns and operates Dee's is Armenian, and this heritage adds a cosmopolitan Mediterranean influence. This is evident in the Greek cheeses and olives that turn up in many dishes not to mention items like the Mediterranean Mix appetizer combo of eggplant, beans and hummus served with foccacia (all three available separately as well) or the Via Armenia pizza with fresh mozzarella, tomato, basterma (Armenian cured beef) and suejuk (Armenia sausage).

Dee's appetizers give you plenty of choices. Although a bit on the pricey side for a pizzeria, albeit an upscale one, the ample portions are adequate for two or more diners. A recent addition to the menu, spinach and artichoke dip is a warm creamy concoction of spinach, artichokes and melted cheese with a deliciously complex flavor. It is slightly browned on top and served with triangles of foccacia fresh from the oven. Bermuda triangle joins crab cakes, fried calamari and sautéed shrimp in a seafood combo platter. It is an intimidating amount of food for an appetizer with a price to match. Of its three components, the sautéed shrimp were the pick of the litter, expertly prepared with garlic, tomato, onion, fresh herbs and wine.

All of Dee's salads are worthy companions for the pizza or pasta. Like the appetizers, they are very substantial and adequate for sharing. I have enjoyed them all over the years, frequently lunching on the chicken caesar. The high quality of the ingredients ensure salad excellence. The arugula and mansouri salad matches this sharp leave with an equally assertive Greek goat cheese dressed in balsamic vinaigrette epitomizes Mediterranean sensibilities.

The pizza here is pretty close to yuppie pizza perfection. The crust is thin and crisp – basically a foccacia to which sauce and toppings are applied. Our absolute fave is the Four Seasons, which brings together fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce, kalamata olives, artichoke hearts, portabella mushrooms and pepperoni. I think of it as the Mediterranean “works.” Like the Buddhist monk said, “make me one with everything.” There are 20 different pre-designed pizza combinations to choose from, or you can design your own from a comprehensive list of toppings ranging from the familiar to the adventurous.

On a recent visit we sampled two pastas. We found the pasta on the lobster ravioli rather dense and heavy, and the lobster flavor all but obscured by the rich sauce. We also tried a fettucine special which involved sort of a carbonara sauce with shrimp. Again the sauce was overly rich, the bits of bacon underdone and the shrimp scarce, making it hard to justify pricing this special above any other of the pastas on the menu. Whether here, or anywhere, its always worthwhile to ask for prices of specials recited verbally and factor that into your decision.

Desserts at Dee's are predictably lush. You can fill your sweet tooth with caramel fudge pecan, a moist, rich chocolate layer cake with caramel, topped with chunks of heath bar pieces and pecans or something as simple as Mom's rice pudding – if you've got room!

The Bottom Line

Credit for the popularity of this Forest Hills favorite should go to their perfect balance of the casual and sophisticated. Parents can order a basic pizza for the kids while enjoying more adult-oriented fare. The ambiance is chic enough for a date, yet remains affordable enough for a spur of the moment escape from cooking.

Dee's

107-21 Metropolitan Ave.

Forest Hills

718-793-7553

www.deesbrickovenpizza.com

Cuisine: Casual Italian pizza/pasta with Armenian/Greek influences

Setting: Stylish

Service: Friendly and efficient

Hours: Lunch & dinner Tuesdays to Fridays. Closed Mondays

Reservations: No

Alcohol: Full bar

Parking: Street