For a fine Italian dining experience in an aura of warmth and affection, find your way to Giardino Ristorante in Douglaston.
Tucked away just north of Northern Boulevard (east of the Cross Island Parkway) in a quaint, Tudor-style neighborhood-landmark building, they’ve been drawing crowds since 1992. That should tell you something.
Inside the main dining room, the d/cor and glass-panel roof give a feeling of dining al fresco, in a Sicilian garden, under the massive trees for which Douglaston is known.
Those who think they know Sicilian culinary influence are in for a pleasant surprise -artichokes, basil and lemons are native there, and so is fantastic seafood.
At the table, dark-crusted bread and a seasonal appetizer - being spring, we had fava beans, sliced zucchini, and red onion, marinated in herbed oil - were a perfect warm up, while our waiter, Massimo, pointed out menu items like he was showing us around his hometown.
He brought us a tray heaped with the “catches of the day” including a whole lobster and a Branzino, (European Sea Bass) swordfish steak, clams, scallops, mussels, a veal chop and a frenched rack of lamb, from which we could select for our lovingly-cooked meal.
Appetizers include the familiar antipasto, clams oreganata and fried calamari with marinara sauce - all of which were excellent. They have grilled octopus on celery hearts with a hint of white balsamic and lemon - incredibly tender and flavorful -if you’ve never tried it, this is the place. Salsicce con Carciofini - sausage, artichoke, mozzarella, prosciutto and custard baked in puff pastry - is delightful.
Between the appetizers and the main course we had the Sicilian salad, again with artichokes, and provolone, soppressata and Sicilian olives highlighting the Romaine and wonderful ripe tomato wedges.
They have a wood fired oven for pizza - Italian, not New York style. The simple pizza Margherita has mozzarella in white expanses on red sauce, adorned with whole green basil leaves … the colors of Italy’s flag … crisp in both flavor and crust.
Spaghetti with Broccoli rabe is al dente and mounded high with sausage, endive and roasted pepper and olive oil and not overpowered by garlic.
We tried the veal “Valdostana” stuffed with mushrooms, prosciutto and mozzarella in a Marsala sauce. The meat was pounded thin and fork-tender, wrapping perfectly their perfectly cooked contents in a velvety sauce.
The Francese “Duet” is chicken breast, jumbo shrimp and artichokes; pan fried and presented beautifully, in yet another silken sauce, with a hint of zest to give depth to the piquancy of the lemon.
The best thing about eating artichokes is that they have a chemical that affects the taste buds making everything after them seem a little sweeter. It’s a wonderful thing.
We drank house wines, a Pinot Grigio, Chianti and a cabernet, and they were all smooth and balanced, even before the artichoke.
There’s a selection tray for desserts too, if you have room. Everything looks marvelous - mousse cakes in chocolate and strawberry, but I opted for the subtle pear, which was a perfect complement to the solid coffee and espresso coffee they serve. They also have vanilla, chocolate and caramel ice cream that they get from an Italian specialty supplier which is first-rate.
They have take-out and do catering; the more intimate Patio Room and more formal Tuscan Room are available for parties even during prime dining hours on Saturday.
Giardino
44-37 Douglaston Parkway
Douglaston, NY 11363
718-428-1090
www.giardinos.com
CREDIT CARDS: Visa, MasterCard, American Express accepted
HOURS: Sundays through Thursdays: noon to 10 p.m.
Friday: noon to 11 p.m.
Saturday: noon to midnight
TRANSIT: Q-12 bus, LIRR – Port Washington Line to Douglaston
