Best friends Maria Maniaci and Roberta Gurino opened Portobello in April of 1999 along Ditmars Boulevard in Astoria, originally as a simple pizzeria. Three years ago, the pair renovated the space and transformed it from another pizza joint into a local fine dining establishment. Just months away from its ten-year anniversary, I paid a visit to this neighborhood restaurant to sample its flavors.
A narrow counter guards the front door, filled with various pizza concoctions that change almost daily. Past the long marble display, the bright dining room hosts a comfortable atmosphere with more than enough legroom for large parties while maintaining a quiet intimacy for a cozy dinner for two. Northern Italian fare is the concentration of the menu, with a prevalence of pork and dairy based products, but there are many diverse options from the other regions of the boot shaped Italian peninsula.
Glancing at the wine list, it is impressive for a small restaurant, with selections including fruity Chianti, delicate Pinot Grigio, bubbly Prosecco, and oaky Chardonnay to name a few, and is available by the glass or bottle.
Bruschetta began our meal, crisp slices of Italian bread topped with fresh tomatoes, red onions, mozzarella and drizzled with olive oil. Whereas many bruschettas fall apart under the stress of an often-oversaturated mass, these chunks held up to their weight with sharp, fresh flavors. The Hot Antipasto Platter, a heap of mozzarella sticks, eggplant rollatini, and fried eggplant and zucchini sticks, is allegedly for two, but we had enough for three more people.
Chicken Semi Freddo, flat chicken cutlets lightly breaded, were topped with fresh leafy arugula, slices of tomato and red onions and a misting of olive oil, was a healthy alternative to Chicken ‘Parm,’ with a nutty sweetness from these elements playfully tossed together.
Spaghetti Carbonara is a perennial favorite of mine, and is a task in itself of finding a restaurant that makes it the right way. Portobello makes this egg-based sauce with a touch of cream and kicks it up with a smoky flavor from slivers of pancetta.
The most popular dish on the menu, Rigatoni Fiorentina is a hefty portion of tubular noodles, submerged in a creamy pink sauce with diced chicken, spinach and cubes of mozzarella clinging to your fork like telephone wires.
Shrimp and Scallops Liernese was one of the specials on this night, which was seafood drenched in a tomato-based white wine sauce with onions, capers and olives. Similar to a Puttanesca sauce, the viscous red sauce was piquant and salty and contrasted the fresh shellfish nicely.
Another special was the Beef Braciole, a thick beef rollatini wrapped with spinach, sundried tomatoes, mushrooms, Capicola ham, boiled eggs and breadcrumbs, cooked in its own juices and doused with a red wine reduction to finish.
The most important part of any meal is the dessert, and Portobello offers interesting takes on many classic Italian pastries. The Tiramisu, with moist ladyfinger cookies collapsing under coffee soaked cake and gooey mascarpone cream, was a taste bud-rocking treat.
A diamond hidden within a local shopping plaza, take a trip to this well-kept secret of a restaurant in Astoria!
PORTOBELLO
43-18 Ditmars Blvd.,
Astoria, N.Y. 11105
Telephone: 718-204-8766
Fax: 718-204-8759
Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Web site: www.portobellopizzeria.com
