George Martin’s Taproom is tops

George Martin’s Taproom, the latest addition to the well-respected restaurant group on Long Island, stands welcoming at the southern entrance to the Long Island Rail Road’s Douglaston station plaza.

The bustling main room, with the same old-time mahogany bar that welcomed generations of locals in its former pub incarnations, gives the place its name. But this is fine dining without the pretense.

The sophisticated, urbane décor and three progressively more intimate and quiet dining rooms offer something for everyone’s tastes, as does the food.

Frank Greco, 20-year veteran executive chef for the Martin group, explained, “We firmed up the menu more along the lines of tastings and appetizers, comfort-oriented with the specials more weighted to entrees on weekends.”

One of the big favorites are the “sliders,” three mini-burgers available in classic beef, pulled pork and “chicken Philly Parmigiana.” We had the pulled pork – tender, “slow barbecue” delights with a smoky, spicy taste that wasn’t overdone – enough to share.

The “Chili pop shrimps” are another favorite – a heaping mound of lightly battered shrimp; moist and tender, dressed a piquant sauce with plenty of fire from the red chili bits – more than enough to share, if you’ll give any up.

Our server, Dana, was delightful and attentive. From a wide selection of house wines by the glass, her suggestion of a white – the Casarsa Pinot Grigio – proved perfect.

Some savvy diners, unable to choose among “firsts,” stick with the appetizers.

One reason is the Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna. Rosy raw fish in a spring roll wrapper, flash-cooked, seed crusted and sliced – warm on the outside, sushi on the inside. The generous portion comes with a real-brewed soy sauce, rosettes of eye-popping wasabi, a lace of peanut sauce and pickled ginger. Wow.

Another starter of note is the house chopped salad. Roast pimento, candied walnuts, corn, tomato and greens are chopped with a generous helping of fresh mozzarella – very lightly dressed with balsamic and oil – delightful.

The main-course crab cakes are absolutely first rate. Moist and delicious, dabbed with sweet-hot Thai chili sauce, they crumble under the fork. A concasse of tomato and sautéed spinach with a light garlic accent makes for a can’t miss dish.

The superb skirt steak comes with chive-parsley mashed, “crispy onion” and the excellent house steak sauce – reminiscent of the big-name steakhouse sauce, but less cloyingly sweet.

Martin’s has a top-drawer “Black Jack Rib” platter, either half or full rack also with the crispy onion and delicious roasted sweet potato – more slow-cooked goodness in a delicious sour-mash-whisky-flavored sauce.

The ultimate comfort-selection has to be “Mac and cheese” like you’ve never had before. The pasta shells are lovingly cooked with Applewood-smoked bacon in a blend of cheddar, Monterey Jack and Pecorino Romano cheese, dusted with Asiago and panko crumbs, and then toasted. When you just have to have carbs, here’s your heaven.

The house brownie or “apple crisp” desserts are satiating takes on classic desserts if you still have room; the rich house brew comes in a “sensibly sized” cup for coffee lovers.

With an eclectic menu; remarkably good three-course prix fixe dinner menu Monday through Thursday; sophisticated specials up on the blackboard; rooms available for parties, seasonal treats and holiday meal promotions; live entertainment on “Open mic Thursday” and live or DJ music on Fridays – George Martin’s Taproom is tops.

George Martin’s Taproom

41-25 235th Street (off Douglaston Parkway)

Douglaston, NY 11363

Phone 718-224-2898

Fax 718-224-0361

Email infor@georgemartingroup.com

Reserve by phone or at www.opentable.com

Dinner: Sunday through Thursday 5 to 10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.

Sunday Brunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

All major cards

Limited street parking