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DINING REVIEW

Osaka Japanese Restaurant
224-23 Union Turnpike
Oakland Gardens, NY 11364
Phone: 718-217-8283
Fax: 718-217-8183
Monday-Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Friday-Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Sunday: noon to 10:30 p.m.
Limited lot parking; street meters until 7 p.m.
Master, Visa, Diners Club accepted
Free Delivery ($10 minimum)
Catering orders welcome

Osaka is known as the “second city” of Japan – and the “No.1 sushi in Bayside.” Both claims could just be right. Tucked away in a strip mall on Union Turnpike, between Springfield Boulevard and the Grand Central Parkway, this appealing little family-owned Sushi/Hibachi restaurant is long on good eats and drink and short on pretense.

Master Chef Jason Chen and wife/manager Vicki had a place in Virginia, but are building a following here. It’s easy to understand why. He goes to market every day making Osaka’s fish some of the freshest around.

With an equally discerning eye, Chen buys, prepares and grills tender, juicy meats that appear on the Teriyaki menu – all with a lot of eye appeal to go with the perfect seasoning and great flavor – as the Beef Negimaki and Steak and Shrimp Teriyaki proved for us.

Chen’s attention to freshness, flavor and technique is the inspiration behind the weekly and monthly roll and platter specials with fanciful names like Dinosaur, Pink Lady or Sunny. “It depends on what’s good,” he said with a smile.

The Volcano Roll is essentially a tuna roll, quick Tempura fried, mounded around a decorative prop and served with a delicious chef’s sauce and Masago (flying fish roe) on top make the “lava.” The interplay of tastes and textures is delightful, and the illuminated centerpiece that makes the lava glow is a lighthearted touch.

Chen readily demonstrates his artistry with a la carte orders of sushi or sashimi, expertly sliced to bring out the flavor and texture, beautifully arraigned and garnished.

For the decision-averse or those in a hurry, Osaka offers both Lunch and Dinner Boxes. Your mid-day meal can include one of 15 meat, poultry, fish or vegetable entrees, soup, salad, rice and a California Roll – for $8.50!

Dinner Boxes with entrée also come with Shu Mai (Chinese dumplings) in addition to soup, salad, rice and a California Roll, all for $12.95-13.95. The offerings are satisfying and delicious and at that price, hard to beat.

It’s the little things that make the difference in the restaurant experience and Osaka scores high. Take the miso soup – which, in the culture, can be taken at any time during the meal. It’s got a little more body and a little more of the tofu and green onion.

Included in the wide selection of beverages are a variety of sakes served hot or cold, although the subtle differences in taste are more apparent when the still rice beer is not heated. A particular treat at Osaka is the milky, unfiltered sake that you won’t find in most places. Served cold, it’s silky, smooth and great with your meal.

They also have a nice selection of wines, including a semi-sweet white from Argentina that was perfect with the panko-crusted fried ice cream we had for dessert.

Osaka is a little out-of-the-way, but well worth seeking out.