Catch new addition to Forest Hills’ dining scene

By Suzanne Parker

Reef is the latest addition to the off-Austin Street, Forest Hills dining scene. It occupies the two-story space (street level and basement) that formerly housed Status Quo, and before that the Network Café. It features Mediterranean-style seafood, and other things, with the major emphasis on Greece and a minor one on Italy.

The new owners have done a tasteful job of renovating what was previously a grungy space, with exposed brick, better lighting and a contemporary design sensibility. Less than two months old, the place was packed on a Thursday evening during “happy hour.”

Gratis bean spread, along with rolls left too long in the warmer, arrived unbidden to our table to sustain us until our actual appetizers came, quite some time later. Reef has an unusually deep list of raw seafood that is neither sushi nor nestled in a shell. Although raw oysters are there for the asking, you can also choose from two types of carpaccio (tuna or salmon), tuna tatare, or striped bass crudo. We opted for the tuna tatare prepared with capers, finely chopped carrot, cucumber, olive oil and lemon. Although a bit overly salty, the flavors were bright and clean.

The burrata was as much of a sensual pleasure as burrata should be. The creamy interior of the mozzarella was set off by the olive oil and balsamic coupled with basil and tomato. Spicy cheese with feta and jalapeno, eggplant with roasted garlic and walnuts, and garlicky yogurt and cucumber are all members of the Trio of Dips. They were all tasty, although the spicy cheese is not for the faint of heart. Our only complaint is that they were stingy with the pita, and when we requested more, replenished it with crackers, claiming to be out of pita.

High marks for the quality of the seafood in the entrées. The sole stuffed with crabmeat was sweet fleshed, and the stuffing was noticeably crabby. The seafood with pasta in a white wine sauce was pleasantly garlicky, and abundant with sea creatures. Swordfish steak was of good quality, but too boring to risk a dose of heavy metal. We also tried the 10-ounce strip steak special, which turned out to be overly salted and barely medium when ordered rare.

Desserts here are mostly house-made and wonderful. Try the walnut cake, drenched in sweet syrup or the semolina custard.

Now comes the bad news, good news part. The bad news was that the service was abysmal. When we complained, they attributed it to being short staffed because a server didn’t show. The good news is that they showed that they cared. When we told them one of the entrées and the French fries were cold, they graciously comped us our bottle of wine and coffees. Since they can’t keep that up with every diner, we’re confident they’re committed to improving their service.

The Bottom Line

Reef is a welcome addition to Forest Hills for drinks and Mediterrannean snacks or a full dinner. There are happy hour discounts of 20 percent on all appetizers, and varying discounts on wine and cocktails from 5 p.m. — 7:30 p.m. The vibe is lively and the food tasty. The management is very hospitable.

Suzanne Parker is the TimesLedger’s restaurant critic and author of “Eating Like Queens: A Guide to Ethnic Dining in America’s Melting Pot, Queens, N.Y.” She can be reached by e-mail at qnsfoodie@aol.com.

Reef

108-02 72nd Ave.

Forest Hills

(718) 487-4564

www.reef-restaurant.com

Price Range: Starters: $9—16. Entrées $13—28

Cuisine: Mediterranean seafood

Setting: Stylishly remodeled two-story space.

Service: Needs improvement

Hours: Monday to Wednesday Noon – Midnight, Thursday to Saturday Noon – 1 am, Sunday Noon – Midnight

Reservations: Recommended on weekends

Alcohol: Full bar