Dining Out: Paris in Woodside

By Carol Brock

LA FLOR BAKERY AND CAFE

53-02 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside

426-8023

The very next day I was spreading the news.

We supped at La Flor on Saturday. On Sunday, I urged an acquaintance to take his significant other. “It just so happens,” he chuckled, “we often go to a restaurant in Paris called La Flor.”

That's where the connection stops. Or does it? My La Flor is the sort of bakery/cafe you'd find on the Continent, the Upper East Side, NoHo or SoHo, but not expectedly on Roosevelt Avenue in Woodside.

The corner store front has a five-foot-tall red rose painted on the two large, plate glass windows. There's a small glass refrigerated case along a wall lined with shelves with spices and pickles used in the kitchen, and sometimes sold. Delectable salads, two-inch high fritatas, and scrumptious pastry tarts are in the case.

In lieu of a counter, there's a low wooden table adjourning. A semicircular open kitchen has hands of finger bananas draped over the eye high glass. Pieces of dinnerware are artistically embedded in the base. Small round, gray marble-topped tables are arranged here and there, including a nook up front.

The edibles in the glass case looked sophisticated; the menu reads similarly (mushroom strudel, fried calamari in spiced cornmeal with chipoltel remoulade).

La Flor opened five months ago. The partners are both Mexican, but Viko, the chef, has a passion for French and Italian food to which he likes to add a dash of Asian. Yet, he still remains true to his heritage. In tiramisu, kahluha is used instead of marsala.

All this is self taught. Food was always his passion – he started baking at age 9. Early on he worked in Larry Forgione's “An American Place.” He ate out in fine restaurants like Bouley. That is evident from La Flor's trendy presentations. (Plus, he admits to always playing with food.)

The fine wine was poured. The finesse of a sampling of a poached pear set dramatically amid four, thin slices of a small blood orange.

Five months and all this – Viko, you're a natural.

From previewing the items in the case, my dining companion knew she wanted to try the multi-grain salad with wheat berries and wild rice. I knew I wanted to sample the great mixed green salad. It had, I found, match-stick-size pieces of chicken which gave it a new twist, and mango chutney did the rest. The mushroom strudel was sensational – chopped mushroom sauteed in butter, rolled up in golden fillo and served on a bed of greens. Her rolled crispy tacos were stuffed with chicken, potatoes and cheese and served nestled in greens. Both excellent.

ed wine served in a good-looking, appropriate glass was excellent. Yes, Viko seems to be knowledgeable here, too.

The famed Mexican sauce served on turkey, mole pablano, garnished the savory pastry filled with shrimp, rice and almonds which was her main dish. She didn't quite believe that there was chocolate in it even though it has the look. So she asked and Viko confirmed. And my reputation saved.

I was delighted with baked polenta lasagna made and served in a small oval baking dish with zucchini and yellow squash sliced lengthwise, layered with a white sauce enriched with mixed cheese and long slices of polenta. At the table across the way, a young lady in a dashing black felt hat who had had the calamari with remoulade, was now also forking into a lasagna.

The poached pear was set before us. We had viewed the goodies in the case and had to indulge ourselves, The chocolate pecan tart was mercifully thin. I tried a cup of chocolate with it. It was not Mexican-style frothed with a swizzle stick, but aulait made with semi-sweet and Mexican chocolate. Nice.

Needless to say, we both are planning on returning shortly with guests in tow, perhaps for breakfast (bourbon vanilla bean French toast), or lunch (traditional Mexican sandwiches), but definitely for dinner.

La Flor, you're my new true love.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Attractive bakery and cafe. A 5-foot-tall red rose painted on each window. Excellent French/Italian/Mexican cuisine. Very nice service. Sophisticated cafe menu, bakery, takeout salads, and more. Breakfast, lunch and dinner.

CHEF'S CHOICE

Mushroom Strudel…$3.95

Flautas de Polio (rolled crispy tacos

filled with potatoes, chicken and

cheese)…$4.95

Multi-Grain Salad…$3.95

Garbanzo Salad (chick peas with

sauteed spinach, garlic, lemon juice

and extra virgin olive oi1)…$4.95

Grilled Sirloin Steak…$10.95

Pastilla of Marinated Shrimp (savory

pastry filled with shrimp, rice,