By Brian M. Rafferty
As the leaves start showing their colors and the wind seems to blow more noticeably from the north, dining shifts along parallel lines to the season’s change.
Though in summer we may have sought out light salads, cool sushi, pasta with herbs and oil, a simple sandwich or even a frozen treat, cooler weather means heartier food — the kind that sticks to your ribs and fills your belly.
It’s no wonder that so many of us gain a few pounds over the winter. We slow down, shifting almost into hibernation, stocking up for the long winter ahead.
The good news is, many of our area restaurants know exactly what the change in season is all about. The menus on display throughout the borough in the last few weeks have shifted from the summer salad to the fall fill-up.
Perhaps its the change to football season that signals the actual trumpeting of the horn — that tells the leaves to turn from green to gold, that instructs sun to rise later and set earlier. Maybe it is the pharmacies and party supply stores taking out the Thanksgiving cards and decorations that heralds this new season. Once the Thanksgiving cornucopia is out, thoughts turn to stuffing, sweet potatoes and gravy — all desired after the long summer light snacking, but gravely regretted as fall turns into winter and the needle on the scale keeps ticking upward.
So enjoy eating out in the fall while you can. With just six weeks until Thanksgiving and another four until winter if officially here, take advantage of some of the best dining that the area has to offer.
Here is a sampler of highlights from the year, focusing on those meals that fill us up while sating our appetites. Thanks to Carol Brock for her help. Bon appetit.
Aji Restaurant
20-02 Utopia Pkwy.
Whitestone
352-1616
Chef’s Choice
Japanese
Tuna Tataki (grilled tuna w/ ponzu sauce)…$6.95
Edamame (cooked soy beans)…$3.95
Seafood Yaki Udon or Soba…$10.75
Oyako Don (cooked chicken, veg & egg over rice)…$8.75
Chinese
Bar-B-Q Spareribs…$6.75
Scallion Pancakes (8)..$3.95
Shrimp with Chinese Eggplant… $5.95/$10.25
Grand Marnier Shrimp (jumbo shrimp, lightly, crisply coated blended in our chef's special Marnier sauce) …$12.95
The Bottom Line
Two chefs, one Japanese, one Chinese. Full menu for each cuisine. Both excellent. Interesting menus. Japanese ambiance with sushi bar plus six 3 x 5 American flags attractively hung.
Bellagio
234-19 41st Ave.
Douglaston
224-1300
fax 281-1417
Chef’s Choice
Cold seafood salad…$14
Baby greens with pears, walnuts & raspberry vinaigrette…$8
Veal chop Melanaise (with chopped plum tomatoes)…$28
Stuffed chicken breast with Japanese bread crumbs (stuffed with spinach, prosciutto, marscapone, and a Madeira sauce)…$18
Grilled ahi tuna (with red wine/blood orange reduction)…$25
Risotto pudding with berries…$8
Chocolate truffle cake with raspberry sauce…$8
The Bottom Line
Up scale Italian by LIRR station. North side. Bucolic setting. New menu coming up. Open seven days for dinner. Valet weekends and validated parking, south side lot.
Caffe Classico Ristorante
76 Middleneck Rd., Great Neck
516-820-8008
Chef’s Choice
Melanzane Classico (grilled eggplant with fresh mozzarella, basil & sun-dried tomatoes)…$8.50
Alla Vodka (light pink tomato sauce with vodka and onions)…$14.50
Frutti Di Mare (shrimp, mussels, calamari & clams in marinara sauce)…$16.50
Vitello Portobello (veal cutlet with portobello mushrooms & spinach)…$18.95
Pollo alla Romano (with arugula, mushrooms, red onions & peppers)…$15.95
Pesce del Giorno Marcchiaro (sautéed in white wine, onions, capers & plum tomatoes)…Ask
Zuppa di Pesce (mixed seafood stew cooked in plum tomato sauce)…$20.95
Tiramisu…$5.75
Fruti di Bosco (7 or 8 fruits)…$5.75
The Bottom Line
Once a café, now a full fledged dinner ristorante. Fresh tasting Italian food. Outstanding salads. Dessert showcase holds 25. Focaccia, pannini and four bruschetta, thin-crusted personal pizzas available for dinner as well as lunch.
Ecco
2370 Jericho Turnpike
Garden City Park
516-739-0505
Chef’s Choice
Tenderloin of Lamb Risotto (baby artichokes, caramelized onions, lamb á jus)…$12
Housemade Gnocchi (rustic ragout of veal, pork & beef, shaved grana podona)…$9
Pan-Seared Veal Sweetbreads (arugula, brown butter, caper, golden raisin sauce)…$10
Seared Durade—Mediterranean baby black bass (slow poached broccoli rabe, fresh herbs, virgin olive oil & fresh lemon juice)…$24
Chocolate Truffle Mousse (caramelized bananas, peanut butter, gelato and banana gelato)..$7
The Bottom Line
A treasure: Fine dining. Refined ambiance. Professional service. Full bar with cordials and cognacs. Wine tasting dinners. In-season game dinners. Also perfect for small private parties.
Eldorado
196-50 Northern Blvd.
Bayside
229-8300
Chef’s Choice
Chimichangas (crispy flour tortillas filled with pulled chicken, red beans, queso blanco and sweet peppers)…$6
Tampiqueña (dry rubbed 16 oz. ribeye steak with garlic fries and roasted pepper salad)…$20
Salmon Casa Moneo (char-grilled salmon with black beans, salsa and rice in smoked chipolte sauce)…$17
Alambare à la Mexicano (skewered cuts of filet mignon, chorizo, onion, tomato and chile serranos with Mexican rice and beans)…$18
Cantina Flan (vanilla & caramel custard slowly cooked in their natural caramelized au jus)…$5
Brownie Stampede (warm homemade brownie topped with vanilla ice cream)…$5
The Bottom Line
New concept Tex-Mex. Texas ethnic fused with Mex using French techniques. Mildly spiced. Handsome, candlelit room fronted by Tequila Lounge and Bar. Appealingly lighted.
El Encuentro
71-04 Grand Avenue
Maspeth
639-8638
Chef’s Choice
Empanadas “El Encuentro” (meat or chicken)…$2.50
Mussels & Clams Pussilipo—sautéed with garlic/oil/shallots & white wine…$6.95
Lobster Paella…$18.95 for one, $29.90 for two. (Friday Night only)
Pollo A La Brasa Estilo El Encuentro—Half roasted chicken Peruvian style…$8.50
Homemade custard (flan)…$5
Homemade crepes filled with milk caramel…$6
A lunch special is also offered for $8.95 between noon and 4 p.m., which includes soup or salad, choice of entree and a glass of wine.
The Bottom Line
The food is an intriguing mix of South American and Italian. The waiters are warm and gracious. And even if you’re not in the mood for an entire meal, it’s worth a visit for the flan alone.
Gasthaus
25-73 Francis Lewis Blvd.
Bayside
631-7700
fax: 631-7513
Chef’s Choice
Jaeger Schnitzel (breaded beef cutlet Hunter style with cream of mushroom sauce)…*$9.50
Cordon Bleu (breaded chicken cutlet stuffed with ham and Swiss cheese)…*$8.25
Reuben Sandwich (corned beef with sauerkraut and Swiss cheese on rye bread with potato salad)…$7.50
Bratwurst (German sausage)…*$7
Frikadelle (giant meatball, 50% beef, 50% pork)…*$7
*These items served with your choice of home fries, potato salad, French fries, cole slaw, potato pancakes, spaetzle)
The Bottom Line
German food to go. Typical German dishes served Hunter Style with cream of mushroom or Gypsy Style with peppers and onion sauce. Delivery to Bayside, Whitestone and College Point.
Harmony
36-23 Queens Blvd.
Sunnyside
786-8383
Chef’s Choice
Peste afumat (smoked fish platter)…$3.99
Zinete (eggplant spread)…$3.99
Mamaliga (cornmeal served with feta cheese and sour cream)…3.99
Pastrav (grilled boneless trout)…$7.99
Mititei (Romanian grilled sausages)…$7.99
Sarmale (stuffed cabbage)…$7.99
Papanasi (fried doughnuts with sour cream and jelly)…$3.5O
Savarina (light ring cakes like baba au rum)…$3.50
The Bottom Line
“In” dining spot for Romanians. Impressively large, dramatic decor, Romanian statues. Wonderful desserts (savarina, crepes, profiterol, diplomat). Romanian favorites from stuffed cabbage to mamaliga (cornmeal with shredded feta and sour cream) to mititei (Romanian grilled sausages). Tall cups of Turkish coffee. Nice “little English” service.
Il Fresco
194-01 Northern Blvd. Bayside
225-0001
Chef’s Choice
Gamberi Trevisano-Seared jumbo shrimp wrapped in prosciutto and served with orange balsamic reduction…$13.95
Bocconcino Di Mozzarella-Mozzarella and peppers wrapped with prosciutto, topped with pesto sauce…$8.95
Pollo Remy-Chicken breasts with sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, cognac cream sauce…$15.95
Chilean Sea Bass Mare Chiaro-With mussels, shrimp, clams in garlic white wine and tomato sauce…$26.95
Agnello Aromatiche-lamb chops with sautéed spinach and mushrooms…$25.95
The Bottom Line
Dramatic cathedral like space plus loft dining. Fine Italian food. Good service. Outdoor dining “On the Boulevard”.
Indian City
271-01 Union Turnpike
New Hyde Park
343-1200
Chef’s Choice
Kati Kabab-veg/chicken (pan-fried tortilla stuffed, with spices)..$3.95/$4.25
Chicken Ginger Soup …$2.95
Laccha Paratha flaky whole wheat flour bread topped with melted butter)…$2.25
Indian City Nan (nan stuffed with mildly spiced chicken tikka & herbs)…$2.95
Hari Chicken (chicken with house special spices in a coriander sauce)…$7.95
Crabmeat Masala (with spices in a tomato-based sauce)…$11.95
Chicken Biryani (saffron-flavored rice cooked with chicken & nuts)…$9.95
Lamb/Goat Pasanda (mild sauce garnished with nuts)…$8.95
The Bottom Line
Exterior bathed in pink glow at night. Fine Northern Indian cuisine. Good service. Soft Indian music.
J’s Seafood & Steakhouse
770 Middleneck Road
Great Neck
516-466-8222
Chef’s Choice
Sizzled rare sesame crusted yellow fin tuna with a duo of sauces…$9.95
Oysters baked under spinach with sake and goat cheese… $9.95
Bibb lettuce with Asian pears and walnut crusted Sonoma goat cheese and citrus dressing…$7.50
Pan-seared chicken with penne tossed in a light Florentine cream sauce…$16.95
Macadamia nut crusted Chilean sea bass with port sauce…$17.95
Grilled swordfish with lobster meat and a citrus caper butter sauce…$22.95
J’s fresh pear tart (fresh sliced pears baked atop a flaky puff pastry crust and served with vanilla ice cream)…$7.50
The Bottom Line
Picket fenced patio viewable from dining room and bar. A new seafood and steakhouse. American menu. Lots of seafood. Three steak selections. Interesting desserts. Very caring service.
Kati Allo
29-06 172 St.
Bayside
939-1616 fax 463-9544
Chef’s Choice
Feta (melted with spices)…$3.95
Hummous (on pita)…$3.25
Melitzanosalata (a nice eggplant dip)…$3.95
Pastitsio or Mousaka (Greek salad & Pita)…$8.25
Chicken kabob platter (Greek salad, potato or rice)…$9.95
Lamb chops…$14.50
Baklava…$2.75
Kafita…$2.75
The Bottom Line
Something different. Something else. Small Greek eatery and outdoor Grecian garden. Patio. Dine Mediterranean style. Good service. A little find for dinner or snacking.
La Grotta Di Marcello Ristorante
254-12 Northern Blvd.
Little Neck
224-9257/8899
Chef’s Choice
Stuffed Artichokes (a special)… $8.50
Baked clams oreganato…$6.75
Malazana Rolletini (rolled eggplant with ricotta cheese in pink sauce)…$6.75
Rigatoni à la Grotta (fresh garlic, broccoli, baby shrimp & portobello mushrooms in a white sauce)…$12.75
Tortellini à la Ciocciara (mushrooms, green peas, vodka in light tomato sauce)…$9.75
Porterhouse Steak (a special)…$27.75
Two (1 1/2 pound) Lobsters (in roast garlic sauce over linguini)…$29.75
Veal Rosini (veal sautéed with truffles, sun-dried tomatoes, smoked soprasetta and white wine)…$14.75
The Bottom Line
A new addition: the Blue Grotta room. Now, three waterfalls. Live piano music Monday to Friday. Fine Italian cuisine, good wine list and service.
La Pizzetta II
253-17 Northern Blvd., Little Neck
279-5922 fax 279-4329
Chef’s Choice
Hot antipasto for two (clams, mussels, stuffed mushrooms, eggplant rollatini)…$11.95
Stuffed Artichokes…$7.95
Homemade Fettuccini al Filetto di Pomodoro Alfredo…$9.95
Filet of Sole Marchiara…$14.95
Mixed Seafood Marinara…$16.95
Chicken Scarpariello…$12.95
Pizzetta Barese (fresh tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, garlic, basil)…$7.95
Veal alla Pizzetta (with artichoke hearts, pimento, mushrooms)…$13.50
Homemade Italian Cheesecake…$3.95
Homemade Tiramisu…$4.50
The Bottom Line
New Northern/Southern Italian fare in Little Neck. Pizzetta, individual pizzas, are the highlight. Full menu from antipasti to dolci is served. Catering available. Takeout and private parties to 50.
Louie’s Oyster Bar & Grille
395 Main Street
(On the Waterfront)
Port Washington
516-883-4242
fax 516-767-7275
Chef’s Choice
Maryland crabcake…$10
Oyster sampler (12, chef’s choice)…$17
Chef’s seafood salad…$19
Louie’s clam chowder…$5.50
Louie’s favorite stuffed clams…$9
Shrimp Parmigiana with linguine (lunch)…$15.50
Louie’s 1 1/4 lb. Lobster roll (7 oz.)…$16
Fried oyster PoBoy (lunch)…$11
Grilled yellowfin tuna…$22
Key lime pie (fresh daily)…$4.50
Pecan pie…$4.50
The Bottom Line
Waterfront dining. Deck to seat 200. Seafood and more seafood. Upscale, well prepared. Lunch includes classic rolls (lobster, fried Ipswich clams, shrimp), PoBoy and wraps. Breezy service.
Marbella
220-03 Northern Blvd., Bayside
423-0100 fax 423-0102
Chef’s Choice
Gambas en Salsa Verde (shrimps in green sauce)…$7.95
Grilled Calamari (shrimps in garlic sauce)…$8.50
Sopa de Aubias (black bean soup)…$4.25
Mariscada en Salsa Verde (lobster & seafood in green sauce)…$24.95
Paella Valenciana con Longosta (lobster, chicken, seafood, rice, sausage)…$23.95
Escalopes de Ternera á la Madrid (veal scallopine dipped in batter & sautéed in lemon & wine sauce)…$17.95
Crepes Marbella for two/ Crepes for One.(served with vanilla ice cream)…$15.95/$9.95
The Bottom Line
Old world elegance. Professional, tux-clad, tableside service. Fine Spanish and Continental food. The spot for a quiet celebration.
Nick & Pedro’s
1496 Northern Blvd.
Manhasset
516-365-6930
Chef’s Choice
Calamari Fritti…$6.95
Sauté Delio Chef (clams, mussels, shrimp, in garlic, olive oil, wine)…$7.95
Insalata della Casa…$.695
Insalata de Arugala…$7.95
Rolletine Montanara (pasta stuffed with spinach, porcini, Parmigiana)…$15.95
Linguini Bolognese…$13.95
Vitello Milanese Mateo (breaded veal cutlet served with a tomato salad)…$18.95
Homemade Chicken Ravioli Caprese (in tomato sauce, topped with mozzarella)…$16.95
Peanut Butter Chocolate Mousse Cake…$6.50
The Bottom Line
Ladies lunch American on salads. Dinner time it’s Italian/Continental. Nick is Italian. Pedro and his brother/chef Victor hail from El Salvador. Garden grotto setting. Enter from Northern or rear parking lot on concourse level.
Sadie’s Kitchen
249-30 Horace Harding Expwy.
Little Neck
281-2515 fax 281-2487
Chef’s Choice
Crab cakes (corn salsa, herb mayonnaise)…$7.95
Southwestern chicken salad (grilled chicken breast, romaine, Monterey Jack cheese, crunchy tortilla strips, corn and zesty cilantro dressing)…$6.95
Chinese chicken salad (Napa cabbage, carrots, celery and with a ginger soy vinaigrette)…$6.95
Crab cake sandwich (served with lettuce, tomato and herb mayo)…$6.95
PoBoy sandwich (fried shrimp served with lettuce, tomato, herb mayo)…$4.95
Panko Crusted Shrimp (encrusted in Japanese bread crumbs and served with an herbed mayo)…$14.95
The Bottom Line
A family feel with a Southwestern look. A meal for anyone and desserts to die for (though ignore the skinny hostess when you order).
The Sly Fox Inn
177-23 Union Turnpike
Fresh Meadows
969-8169
Chef’s Choice
Buffalo Wings (biggest and meatiest)…$6.95
Nachos Grande (just ask your server)…$6.95
Veal Medallions Sly Fox (with portobello mushrooms, and gorgonzola cheese, potato and vegetables)…$15.95
Aged Boneless Strip Steak (a beef eaters delight; topped with crispy fried onions, mashed potato & spinach)…$20.95
Pan-Seared Catfish (filet with grape tomato salsa )…$15
Caramel Granny Smith Apple Pie…$4
Ice Cream Brownie Sundae…$4
The Bottom Line
Country inn, fox and hounds setting. Across from St. John’s. Basketball team and opponents fuel up there. Football and baseball coaches dine there. Macho meals and new American Continental, plus light specials. Hearty brunches (and kids brunches Saturday and Sunday.
The Stockyard Ltd.
103 Post Avenue, Westbury
516-876-6576
516-334-9033
Chef’s Choice
Homemade Crab Cake…Market price
Escargot…$11.95
Boneless Shell…$29.95
Porterhouse (for one/for two)…$32.95/$52.95
Prime Rib (Fri & Sat Stockyard cut classic)…$26.95
Stockyard's BBQ Baby Back Ribs…$21.95
Creamed Spinach…$4.95
Onion Rings (homemade, beer battered)…$4.95
NY Creamy Cheese Cake…$4.75
Chocolate Chocolate Cake…$4.75
The Bottom Line
A boarding house in Civil War days. Now a fine dining steakhouse. Ten-ounce martinis served in individual chrome shaker. USDA-certified Angus beef. Private rooms for small parties.
Uncle Peter’s
83-15 Northern Blvd.
Jackson Heights
651-8600
fax 651-2400
Chef’s Choice
Jamon Serrano (Spanish style cured ham with manchego cheese)…$9.50
Basalmic Grilled Portobello (served with roasted red peppers, fresh melted Mozzarella)…$7.95
Rigatoni à la Peter’s (with eggplant, zucchini and fresh plum tomatoes)…$12.95
Fettuccini Gamberi Bianco (with shrimp in a champagne tomato cream sauce)…$17.95
Pollo à la Grilla (grilled breast of chicken topped with avocado, tomato salad)…$13.95
Veal Scallopini with Funghi (sauced with a mushroom, Marsala wine sauce)…$16.95
Grilled Pork Chops (with fresh oregano served with homemade potato)…$14.98
The Bottom Line
Delightful, small, European continental restaurant. Fine food. Excellent service. A sleeper.
