By Suzanne Parker
Sushi Rock seems to have taken the video screens with them when they departed, leaving behind a pleasant, airy, windowed two-story space, devoid of interior decoration. El Patron has shown absolute decorative neutrality in not adding any sombreros, serapes, pottery or any of the usual trappings of Mexican restaurants. The only thing to look at is a couple of mute flat-panel TV's over the empty bar (liquor license coming soon, we are told), one permanently tuned to sitcoms, the other to sports.Despite the unadorned surroundings, the staff is warm and welcoming here and the feel relaxed and upscale. The menu emphasizes the antojitos Mexicanos (Mexican-style whims), corn- and tortilla-based specialties of the North like tacos, tamales, quesadillas, chalupas and the like. Their chef is extremely circumspect in his use of chilies, so Anglos with fear of spices will feel right at home.You can complement the excellent complimentary chips and salsa with an enticing selection of appetizers. The old standby, guacamole, is prepared fresh at table side. The Fiesta Mexicana (for two) includes a nice selection of dishes. The nachos are made with refried beans, cheese and a few token bits of the least incendiary jalapenos we have ever encountered. The platter's quesadillas are creatively stuffed with Oaxaca cheese, wild mushrooms and spinach. The chicken flautas were crispy but bland, needing a boost from the pico de gallo and guacamole to give them flavor. We preferred the assortment on the Fiesta platter to the fried seafood of Picada al Patron (for two). This platter was weighted heavily towards the calamari, which were rubbery. The coconut shrimp were decent, but not so plentiful. The scallops were slightly underdone. The entire platter was served lukewarm. El Patron's tortilla soup is an absolute delight, made with chicken, avocado, queso Chihuahua, cilantro and toasted Pasilla chilies. Like everything else here, the spiciness is minimal, but the flavor is abundant.We went for the Plato Patron, believing that their namesake entree would test their mettle. Don't bother. The generous filet and overdone lobster tail had little in the way of sauce to elevate them from being anything but very plain food. There were some well-seasoned, crispy roast potatoes on the side along with some unadorned, frozen mixed vegetables. The Mexican rice on the side was mealy. Stick with one of their “Mexican Heritage” dishes instead, like Tacos de Filet Mignon, or maybe a Combo Patron – a sampler of Mexican specialties. Mixiote a la Mexicana is another good bet – chicken in adobo sauce baked in parchment and served with green tomatillo sauce and first-rate charro beans. This comes with Mexican rice, but we would have preferred white rice to their Mexican.If you're jonesing for something sweet to end your meal, the Tres Leches cake should do you nicely. It is the traditional Mexican cake version of the guilty pleasure of dunking your cookies in milk.The Bottom LineAficionados of Mexican food may find fault with the lack of heat in El Patron's fare, but newbies to the cuisine, or those spice-averse, will find comfort in its gentleness. Vegetarians will find enough to keep them happy, and there is also a children's menu. The civilized atmosphere and affordable prices make this a welcome new neighborhood resource.El Patron194-01 Northern BoulevardFlushing, NY 11358718 819-2121Cuisine: Mexican AmericanSetting: Upscale, unadornedService: Attentive, professionalHours: Lunch & Dinner every dayReservations: OptionalAlcohol: Liquor license pendingParking: StreetDress: CasualChildren: Children's menuMusic: NoTakeout: YesCredit Cards: YesNoise Level: AcceptableHandicap Accessible: YesSamples from the MenuFiesta Mexican (for two) É $12.50Picada al Patron (for two) É $13.30Guacamole en Molcajete É $13.50Sopa De Tortilla É $4.50Combo Patron É $11.50Mixote a la Mexicana É $12.50Kids' Dinner É $5.50Lunch Specials É $7
