By Suzanne Parker
We seldom cross the Nassau County line to dine, but our friend’s ringing endorsement of Crabtree’s on Jericho Turnpike in Floral Park was so persuasive that we made the leap. Her enthusiasm was not misplaced. Crabtree’s has stuck around for 25 years for good reason. Its mostly Italian, slightly Greek offerings might seem pretty mainstream at a casual glance, but the talent in the kitchen sets them apart from the ordinary.
Named for the teacher, Miss Crabtree, that child actor Jackie Cooper had a crush on the1931 episodes, the theme here is a tribute to the “Our Gang” series popular in the 1920s through 1940s. The walls are decorated with large black and white photos from the series and other vintage photos of children.
In an unintended demonstration of changing perceptions, we were seated across from a photo of a little boy and girl arm and arm facing a soda fountain with the girl’s hand on the boy’s rear end, and a group of children bending over to look at something, also shot from the rear. Behind us was a vintage frontal shot of a group of nude 5- or 6-year-olds facing a lake, about to take a dip, entitled “The Birthday Party.” Twenty years ago this display would have been considered cute, but times change, and we couldn’t help cracking wise about the “early pedophilia” décor.
Décor notwithstanding, the menu is built on a bunch of real crowd-pleasers. Six plump, juicy oysters, lightly crumbed, are assembled around a helping of tartar sauce. Crabcakes, which can be had either as an appetizer or entrée, included just enough filler to hold them together with a nice exterior crunch.
The house salad surprised us, not by its combination of romaine, tomatoes and red onion, but by its remarkable creamy balsamic vinaigrette, made extra zippy by a touch of horseradish. For something a little more ethnic, try the Cretan bread salad of toasted rusk, topped with tomatoes and feta. This is perfect for diners who always wish their salads had more croutons.
The dish that, according to the menu, “made their name” was tasso and shrimp in a creamy sauce over linguini, and we can see why. It manages to bridge the gap between the familiar and the adventurous. The bits of Cajun-style tasso ham just add that little bit of heat and smokiness that rescue the dish from rich blandness. Think fettucine alfredo with a kick.
Darla’s Chicken did Miss Hood (the Darla of “Our Gang”) proud. Skiness, boneless chicken breasts are wrapped around a julienne of carrots and yellow and green squash and lightly breaded and fried. This is another dish that shows off Crabtree’s knack for taking a dish and elevating to a higher plane with just the right sauce — in this case, a buttery, garlicky scampi.
With their Greek roots, any of the fish and seafood dishes here are a good bet. We enjoyed a perch special, but have confidence that any they know how to do justice to all forms of marine life.
Our sweet ending was a very homemade slab of pecan pie served with a froth of Chantilly and a couple of berries.
The Bottom Line
Crabtree’s serves up great food and good value. The service can be a little rough around the edges, especially in the area of busing, as our crumbs and debris were left on the table from one course to the next. That being said, people still know a good thing when they see it, and don’t even think of trying to go on the weekend without a reservation. This is a restaurant that diners with sophisticated or timid palates can agree to love.
Suzanne Parker is the TimesLedger’s restaurant critic and author of “Eating Like Queens: A Guide to Ethnic Dining in America’s Melting Pot, Queens, N.Y.” She can be reached by e-mail at qnsfoodie@aol.com.
Crabtree’s
226 Jericho Tpke
Floral Park, NY 11001
(516) 326-7769
Price Range: Appetizers: $3.95—8.95, Entrees: $9.50—22.95
Cuisine: Mostly Italian with a Greek accent
Setting: Our Gang tribute
Service: Well-intentioned but needs more polish.
Hours: Lunch and dinner daily
Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekends
Alcohol: Full bar
Parking: Street
Dress: Casual
Children: Welcome
Music: Recorded
Takeout: Yes
Credit Cards: Yes
Noise Level: Acceptable
Handicap Accessible: Yes
