The sparkle is back at La Coquille, an old favorite restaurant of mine.
The handsome, passionate new owner, Michael Miller has brought a new young chef from Sabrina’s in Whitestone, to bring a creative 21st century perspective to the menu.
My husband Stu had frequented the restaurant since its beginning days in 1969. The charming and intimate setting will now be getting a facelift and expansion. The restaurant will double in size to create a larger bar area and a party room.
What made Stu smile as we were seated was to see the “old time” waiters still there in their tuxedos and offering their charming ways of gracious service headed by the maitre d’.
Michael, the owner, was there greeting the diners as he made his way around the room. You know the quality will shine when there is such a person present.
We were given a tiny taste of well-seasoned local striped bass and slivers of lobster, mushrooms and micro greens that are cut as soon as they sprout.
The chef, Ryan Havens, explained to us his mission of bringing locally grown and seasonal offerings to his menu. He wants to present new and unusual items that his purveyors bring him daily.
I was impressed with the presentation of perfectly cooked, crisp, lightly battered zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese served on a large circular watermelon radish - a new vegetable I never experienced before. It was crunchy, colorful and milder than an ordinary radish - yes, it looked like a slice of watermelon.
Keeping with tradition, we were served a rich broth of classic onion soup with abundant, perfectly-caramelized onions topped by melted gruyère cheese. I had another classic dish, escargot. It was interestingly presented in a mushroom cap topped with melted goat cheese - delicious and different.
For the main course, I had my favorite, white fish branzino. I had it brought whole so I could filet it myself and preserve the perfectly seasoned crisp skin - my favorite part.
Stu had another traditional French dish - duck, but done without the usual finish of orange liqueur. He requested it cooked and topped with peppercorns and flambéed with cognac tableside.
Of course, what is a wonderful meal without a great finale? There is the restaurant’s signature dessert of Napoleons filled with rich créme rather than the prosaic custard found elsewhere. There is a rich chocolate mousse, as good as Stu always remembered, but we couldn’t resist also having some of the chef’s newest creations. One was a poached pear surrounded by local blackberries in a crème fraîche sauce. Outrageous!
Then we had bananas flambé, a new rendition of bananas Foster. Outrageous 2!
The new chef’s creativity is aided by the longstanding chef de cuisine at La Coquille, Fredis Ceron.
What a delight to dine in an old favorite that has new magic. Try it you’ll love it.
La Coquille Restaurant
1669 Northern Boulevard (25 A)
Manhasset, NY 11030
Phone: 516-365-8422
