Papazzio has been a favorite of good-food cognoscenti since it opened in 1990 and it isn’t hard to see, hear or taste why. Owner Dominick Bruccoleri sums it up, “When something is good, don’t change it.” A recent renovation consisted mostly of re-finishing the floors. There’s a reason they wore out - the food is good here.
The menu has evolved over the years, of course. “Some of our specials got so popular that people kept asking for them, so we’ve altered the menu since we opened,” he said.
We tried some standards and some specials recently and hardly know where to begin.
Dominick has an intelligent and reasonably priced list of wines by the bottle or glass. Heavy on Italian (of course) and California selections, there are smart picks from New Zealand, Australia and Spain, to name a few. The wines we had (two whites, two reds, by the glass) were surprisingly good.
Our prompt and pleasant servers brought us a crisp green salad delightfully dressed by well-balanced balsamic vinaigrette - enough garlic to whet the appetite without creating a social problem.
The warm beet salad with mesclun greens, goat cheese and roasted, candied pecans with creamy raspberry vinaigrette is a symphony of contrasts in texture and taste.
The special appetizer, grilled jumbo shrimp wrapped in bacon, was perfect - the bacon was done, the shrimp still tender and moist - the pesto dipping sauce, verdant green and generously appointed with pignoli, grated cheese and pieces of grilled tomato.
Home-style Italian chicken soup was a rich, full-bodied, golden brown riot of chicken morsels with tender veggies. I for one hope it’s featured more often.
Entrees included a grilled Red Snapper filet with Sea Scallops in a Chardonnay/Dijon sauce with saut/ed Broccoli Rabe that was another magnificent concert of tastes.
The other dishes came with saut/ed late season vegetables, carrots, zucchini and yellow squash each done to perfection. We had the rack of lamb, cut into four succulent single chops, on a bed of spinach with a port wine reduction - excellent.
The Veal Saltimbocca - pounded-thin, saut/ed cutlets, flavored with herbs and adorned with even thinner layers of prosciutto and cheese on a bed of spinach, lived up to its name. Saltimbocca means “jumps in your mouth,” and it does.
The name “Papazzio” is an Italian combination of “father” and “uncle.” Chicken Papazzio is an Italian combination of breast cutlet, thin-sliced eggplant, sliced mushrooms, cheese and chopped seared tomato in an herbed sauce. Listen to your elders - try it.
Unbelievably, we also tried some side dishes. Risotto with chunks of Portobello is creamy, earthy and satisfying. Saut/ed broccoli rabe with sliced sausage is a favorite of mine, and Dominick serves some of the best. The garlic mashed potatoes are country-style - not overdone in mashing or garlic - comfort food Italian-style.
Desserts are home-made (except for the ice cream.) The warm apple tart has a perfect balance of flaky crust and sweet-tart filling under a perfect dusting of cinnamon. The chocolate Oreo cake is a velvet crescendo of richness and if you haven’t had Tiramisu in a while, this is the place to try it.
Papazzio has a good selection of after-dinner drinks and dessert wines, including a raspberry wine that may help chocolate addicts choose between desserts.
They have live Jazz on Thursday nights, but Papazzio has music for the mouth every day. Try Dominick’s place - he’ll be your favorite uncle.
PAPAZZIO RESTAURANT
39-38 Bell Blvd., Bayside, NY 11361
Phone: 718-229-1962
Fax: 718-229-0418
Email: papazzio@verizon.net
Web: www.papazzio.com
Mon. through Thurs. from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Fri. from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m.
Sat. from 5 to 11:30 p.m.
Sun. from 3 to 10 p.m.
All major credit cards accepted
Live Jazz every Thurs. 7 to 11 p.m.
Muni-meter parking to 7 p.m. except Sun.
Q13 and Q31 bus - Q12 to Bell and Northern Blvd.
