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Fly to LaGuardia Seafood Restaurant

It’s rare that I am humbled by an eatery, but LaGuardia Seafood Restaurant is one of the most pleasant surprises to be found in a borough full of great dining venues.

Owner Ding Chen, a 10-year food-biz veteran, has set a new gold standard – white linen, all-you-can-eat. He owns several buffet restaurants on Long Island, but recently opened this gem in Astoria with the understanding that only higher quality would fly here.

This is prix fixe taken to a new level. Lunch is $9.95, dinner $15.95, Sunday through Thursday; $15.95 and $21.95 respectively on Friday and Saturday.

For this fee, you can feast on an incredibly varied selection of seafood, like clams and oysters on the half shell, succulent New Zealand mussels, crab, massive snow crab legs, jumbo shrimp in a number of styles, broiled and baked salmon or tuna, Peking, smoked or sautéed duck, veggies from land and sea, and more.

Weekend tariffs are higher because added to an already mind-boggling assortment that numbers approximately 100 (yes 100) different dishes – you can find prime rib, rack of lamb and lobster.

Prepare to be impressed with the quality as well as the variety. The 40 different sushi choices are masterfully presented, fresh and appealing.

There are eight different soups, from chicken to sweet-and-sour to a tasty Chinese fish-based offering, traditionally enjoyed with spiced vinegar.

On the other end of the dinner spectrum, you find fresh fruit, a half-dozen ice creams, and numerous pastries, pies and cakes.

No rush here – you can go back again and again, as the attentive staff clears the consumed plates from your table.

For all the spectacular variety, there’s a certain restraint – in filling the serving dishes. Food is constantly being prepared in small batches, to ensure freshness and superior quality of sauces.

A particular example is a novel dish, the “Grand Mariner shrimp,” an outrageously good dish served up, as are so many others, whenever the supply is depleted.

Two sushi chefs labor full time behind one of the most impressive bars I’ve ever seen, slicing, rolling and assembling really first-rate fare. In addition to several varieties of red and white tuna, telltale selections like mackerel, fresh water eel and red clam testify to the freshness and quality here.

Even though manager Nora confesses she isn’t sure how the owner does it, it’s apparent that he’s simply cut the margins – as indicated by the wine, beer and sake prices, which are more than you’d pay in a store, but far less than you’d expect in a restaurant.

All they ask is that you observe the ethic of eating what you take, because they worry that food unconsumed means you didn’t like the fare – a nightmare for the diligent kitchen staff.

Good food, cheap prices and ample parking – fly to LaGuardia Seafood Restaurant.

LaGuardia Seafood Restaurant

43-02 Ditmars Boulevard

Astoria, NY

Phone 718-626-0880

Fax 718-626-3947

Open 7 days- all major cards accepted

Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Dinner 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday

4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

Party room holds 150

Ample parking in shopping center

Q 69 bus; Q101 to Steinway and Ditmars