It’s rare when an Italian restaurant breaks the mold by returning to its roots, but that is exactly what Testaccio Ristorante in Long Island City has done.
Since they opened in October 2009, Testaccio has offered authentic comfort food with a modern New York City flair that enhances the cuisine, rather than overshadow it.
“This is typical classic Roman cuisine,” said executive chef and partner Ivan Beacco. “Dishes are typically made with no more than five ingredients. This style of cooking is very simplistic and that gives the food a chance to speak for itself.”
Chef Ivan, an 11-year veteran of the fine Italian dining scene in New York, brought his iconic dishes to Western Queens without pretense, choosing instead to give eaters exposure to authentic recipes.
The Carciofo all giudea, crisp artichoke with black olive tapenade, features familiar flavors with a textural surprise. And the Assaggini di suppli’ is a customer favorite; a selection of mini rice croquettes ranging from artichokes and truffle, tomato and mozzarella and sweet corn and pecorino.
Their pizzas are another example of classic flavors created with care by a team of professional chefs. The Rughetta prosciutto e parmigiana tastes like the first step in pizza evolution. It features tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto di Parma, arugula and shaved parmesan cheese. Other pizzas offered include a four-cheese, quattro formaggi, with mozzarella, pecorino, gorgonzola and fontina cheeses.
Testaccio’s pasta dishes are rustic and to the point. The Gnocchi alla romana is silky smooth and surprisingly light semolina gnocchi in a tomato and basil sauce. And an egg yolk sauce envelops the spaghetti alla carbonara and holds it together with roasted guanciale, an unsmoked Italian bacon.
Classic Roman cuisine is heavy with meat and Testaccio proudly displays this fact. The galletto intero al forno is a wood oven roasted whole Cornish hen with assorted veggies, peppers and tomatoes. It’s packed with flavor; especially the skin, which carries a succulence that carries through to the delicate meat.
The coda alla vaccinara, or braised oxtail in red wine, is served with roasted veggies, caramelized baby onions and mushroom heads. For anyone who finds the name “oxtail” off-putting, think of it as the most tender and flavorful cut of beef you’ve ever eaten. It melts in your mouth and the mushrooms taste as thought they were picked earlier in the day.
Other standouts include the tonno lardellato al lambrusco, a pan-seared yellowfin tuna wrapped in flavor enhancing pancetta; and the trippa in umido, braised veal tripe with tomato, Roman mint and shaved pecorino.
Call and ask about their Monday night dinner and a movie special, Tuesday night gnocchi specials and their immensely popular Thursday night porchetta night.
Testaccio Ristorante
47-30 Vernon Boulevard
Long Island City, NY 11101
Tel: 718-937-2900
Fax: 718-937-2908
Email: info@testacciony.com
Hours: Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Friday, Saturday 11:30 a.m. to midnight
Lunch Specials
Weekend Brunch
Free Delivery
All Major Credit Cards Accepted
Full Bar
