Carosello Restaurant, recognizable by its carnival-tent roof, has become an institution along Cross Bay Boulevard in Howard Beach. Go there once and you’ll know why. Owner Bruno Rinaldi has made this family-friendly eatery a restaurant like no other.
More than the gaily decorated carousel topper in the signature Carosello Room, or the supervised Arcade, where fidgety kids can go while the adults get to enjoy their meal - the hub here is the kitchen.
It’s right in front of the door and open to view. Chef Giovanni keeps a watchful eye on every detail. He’s a silver-haired bear of a man, and you can tell at a glance that he’s a firm believer in abbondanza - abundance - in quality and variety as well as the portion.
We were escorted to the front dining room by waiter Vito, who efficiently got us our menus, water and bread, which was as warm as Bruno’s welcome and firm as Giovanni’s handshake.
This is also the location of the well-stocked bar, where the largest flat-screen TVs are trained on the stove - talk about nothing to hide!
The heaping plates of meats, seafood and pastas passing by were alluring in both sight and aroma, but it was Wednesday, and we had to try the buffet.
On Wednesdays, from 6 to 9 p.m., the prix-fixe buffet includes dinner, dessert coffees and soft drinks - at $17.95 for adults, $7.95 for kids 12-and-under. Yet again, Carosello proves it isn’t a gimmick. This is a buffet like no other.
I counted 31 … yes, 31, selections of first-rate hot and cold food.
The key to such abundant variety is for the spices to not overwhelm the taste buds; here is a lesson in how it’s done. Giovanni never bombs you with garlic or herbs; you taste the food you’re eating at the moment.
Meat eaters can find not just succulent sausage, veal and chicken dishes. They have sliced shell steak with onions, Neapolitan-style tripe and potatoes in red sauce, and pork in an unexpected teriyaki sauce with mushrooms.
Seafood lovers can feast on a superior fried calamari, calamari risotto with shrimp, shrimp scampi, filet of sole oreganata, clams on the half shell and seafood salad.
Veggie and Salad lovers get green salad, tomato and onion, roasted red pepper with capers, eggplant caponata and an excellent parmigiana.
If you’re a carb-lover, welcome to heaven. Sate yourself on pasta (Rigatoni this night) in a vodka sauce which holds its own against any individual portion and is incredible for a buffet. There’s spaghetti pie and capellini balls, potato croquets, fried polenta, mini-calzones and real Sicilian-style pizza.
Everything is fresh because it’s only there for a fixed time. The long line of chafing dishes is well-staffed, so the dishes remain covered, neat and unmingled. Some of the variations are rotated, to keep choices fresh too.
We went back again and again, bravely trying to sample everything. We failed. There was barely enough room to sample the outrageously good zeppoli and chocolate cake, layered with chocolate pudding and whipped-cream frosting, and the superb coffee and espresso.
The sophisticated Baroni Room seats 50 for intimate parties; the elegant Sorrento Room seats 100 for larger gatherings, corporate events and meetings.
Get on your horse and go around to Carosello.
CAROSELLO RESTAURANT
162-54 Cross Bay Boulevard
Howard Beach, NY 11414
Phone 718-322-7600
Fax 718-322-7601
Email: info@carosellorestaurant.com
www.carosellorestaurant.com
Hours: Sundays through Thursdays,
11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Fridays and Saturdays, 11 a.m. to midnight
All Major Credit Cards Accepted
Valet Parking
Bus: Q21 and Q41 stop right in front.
