Celebrating two years of success this December, Ovelia stands out in an area overflowing with restaurants. This contemporary Greek steakhouse serves classic dishes but takes tradition and reinvents it.
The owner, Chris Ovelia, had a passion for food, which drove him to quit his job at a law firm and take the risk of a lifetime to transform his dream into a reality.
A family run business, his father Gionakis, with over 30 years experience in the kitchen, selects the cuts of meat and prepares the food. His brother, Peter, takes tradition and adds a neoteric flair to them. Even Mama Ovelia works in the kitchen, bridging generations with food!
In a spot surrounded side-by-side by rival eateries, Ovelia separates itself from the herd with luxurious outdoor seating wrapping around the entire restaurant. Wide-open interiors exaggerate this feeling, so no matter where you are dining; you will feel comfortable and away from the noisy traffic of Astoria.
The waitress recommended that I try “The Tango,” and after I realized she was not inviting me to dance, I sipped on this amber beverage. My disillusion quickly turned to elation! Made from vodka, citrone orange liqueur, tangerine and mango juices, this cocktail was smooth and subdued. The vodka quietly snuck by me, rather than overpowering the citrus aperitif.
To start my gastronomic journey, my party and I sampled some traditional Greek fare, but with the Ovelia twist. Velvety Tzatziki was refreshing with a minty undertone. The melitzanosalata and Taramosalata, two dips based with eggplant but distinctly different, conveyed strong tastes and textural variations that keep you guessing on what is next.
Kafteri, a chunky dip of mashed feta and hot peppers, sparks your tongue with fire, quickly cooled by feta.
The “Ovelia Loukaniko” is another dish that affirms the owner’s Greek heritage, but bounds its way in with a new element. Chopped into small rounds and fried, this sausage has a charming citrus taste, due to the orange zest hidden with the pork mix. “Tiria Pikilia,” a platter of broiled feta, kefalogravieria and grilled Halloumi cheese, was a good counter point to the dips. Tender and smoky thanks to the grilling; these salty triangles of sheep’s curd were pungent and aromatic.
Moving on to the main course, I tried the Monastiraki Bifteki, lamb and beef kabobs grilled with veggies and broccoli rabe on the side. I was told this was the most popular dish on the menu, and it is indeed one to please any palate. Going for something less traditional, I tried skirt steak with a coffee marinade. This dark marathon of meat is bathed (or perhaps percolated) with this coffee mix, absorbing some unique flavors and breaking the steak down for easy grilling.
Stacked into a casserole dish, ziti, seasoned ground beef and a rich b/chamel sauce layer onto each other to form “pastichio,” with a hint of nutmeg knocking at the back door. A crisp shell adds a crumbly texture, like any good casserole should have.
My M.V.P. of the night was the Galeos, grilled baby shark steaks, a mound of Skordalia neighboring the tender cartilaginous fish.
For dessert, the waitress recommended I try her favorite, Banana Nutella Crepes. With a faint rum scent, the thin curled pancakes were warm and sweet. I also had their homemade apple crumb pie, with a buttery crumb topping serving as a roof to the warm caramelized apple slices.
Ovelia takes traditional Greek food and embellishes it with a dash of modernism. Come here for brunch or dinner and know that you will leave with a full stomach and smile!
“Ovelia”
34-01 30th Avenue
Astoria, NY 11103
Phone: 718-721-7217
www.ovelia-ny.com
(site under progress)
Brunch available on
Saturdays & Sundays
Take out available
