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Doughnuts for Dinner?

Photos by Bradley Hawks

BY BRADLEY HAWKS

If you live in Astoria, or pass through Chelsea, or crave a daily cup o’ joe, or enjoy an occasional bagel wit’ a schmear, chances are you know of Brooklyn Bagel. Despite the name—which actually harkens to the style of bagels made within—the wildly successful company is based out of Astoria, and even opened an upscale café on Ditmars known as 60 Beans, serving high-end java, cold brews and pastries in a gorgeously designed space.

This past month, the über-hot coffee spot took a brave leap forward, donning a new moniker and concept that includes more than just coffee. Renamed 60 Beans Kitchen & Coffee, the space now offers a lovingly edited selection of charcuterie, small plates, salads, freshly made pasta, hearty entrées and a few sweet endings. Though the front display case still illuminates a selection of delectable gourmet doughnuts from the wildly popular Dough, visitors interested in more substantial fare will be pleasantly surprised by the offering of New American cuisine.

Owners Peter Voyiatzis and John Rocchio hired chef/partner Domenick Gianfrancesco, formerly of Craft and Craftbar NYC, to lead the kitchen. Gaining unanimously favorable reviews and high praise in its soft opening, his new menu is poised to shine brightly on the Astoria restaurant scene.

Begin with a board of homemade pickled radishes and chicken liver pâté, whole grain mustard or wagyu smoked beef tongue with black garlic for sharing. Roasted beets dressed with pistachio and pesto offer an earthy but light reprise as a second course. A salad of bitter green frisée dressed with smoked croutons and anchovy vinaigrette is astonishingly vibrant.

But the real star of the show is the homemade pasta, which is prepared daily by hand downstairs. Toothsome rigatoni arrives blanketed in a bolognese of lamb, which is lightened with a fennel gremolata, then dusted with a whisper of pecorino shavings that melt into the medley like snowflakes on an open palm. Yes, the pasta is precisely that transcendent.

Cider and wine accentuate the selection of coffees and teas, so begin with a glass of spirits and finish your meal with a delicate macchiato.

Hours of operation are Monday through Thursday from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Table service and the dinner menu are available from 5:30 to 10 p.m., seven days a week.

 

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