BY BRADLEY HAWKS
Pink spirals of coco fraise reach toward the ceiling, golden domes of mango and kiwi glisten in the pastry case, napoleons conceal sweet creams beneath zigzags of chocolate and vanilla frosting in flaky thin layers of pastry, slivers of apples rest cheek to cheek beneath blankets of sugary glaze, and pies of pecans, pumpkin and chocolate mousse beg to be chosen to take home.
Cannelle Patisserie has been a beacon of Parisian baking in East Elmhurst for over seven years, and just a few weeks ago, they opened their second location just a block from the Long Island City waterfront. It should come as no great surprise that recently the proprietor moved into one of the buildings across the street from the new location.
Owner and baker Jean-Claude Perennou was eager to offer a tour of the newest facility. And although most of the pastries are baked in specialty ovens in East Elmhurst, the LIC location will feature many exclusive items only available there.
“Most of the breads here are a little more labor-intensive,” Perennou explains. “And we will feature four versions of our Christmas logs.”
Patrons can order from a wide expanse of glass showcases, then take trays to communal tables to nosh on their sweet selections. As a part the requisite sampling, I savored one of the canelés.
These mysteriously magnificent little domes originated in Bordeaux, though they are commonly found throughout all of Paris. The source of endless myths and legends, some say they were developed by a tiny convent of nuns in Bordeaux, while others attribute the origins to the winemakers of the region who utilized only the egg whites, leaving behind the yolks for the pastries. Regardless of speculation, it is particularly thrilling they can now be purchased on 47th Avenue. The crisp, crunchy, caramel casing gives way to an airy, rum-kissed pastry laced with custard. These tiny two-bite treats are simply exquisite, like miniature bruléed Eiffel Towers.
Patrons can also select various quiche and croque monsieurs from the fridge — as well as a modest selection of sandwiches and salads. They are offering soups as well — most recently French onion. Everything is worth a try, so come prepared for a line, especially on the weekends.
But do not be surprised if you find — as I did — that it is perfectly acceptable to make a holiday stop simply for an exquisite pastry. And do not be ashamed if you find yourself returning a salad to the refrigerator and ordering a mango mousse instead. This is far more than your average neighborhood bakery. So grab an extra canelé — or two or three — especially if there is a chance you might run into someone you know. Because despite even the most generous holiday spirit, you are probably not going to want to share.
Cannelle Patisserie
5-11 47th Ave., Long Island City
718-937-8500
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