By Carol Brock
339 Jericho Turnpike, Floral Park
516-488-8780
It was the entertainment on Friday and Saturday evening, plus the memory of a very positive dining experience, that drew me back to the Merry Pedlar.
Four years ago, the Morans had to take over the restaurant they sold. Now, once more, it's a going concern – an American bistro.
Tall, attractive Catherine Moran is the hostess. Regulars are seated according to their preferences. Some want to be in the front room opposite the attractive bar and dance. Some want to be in the other room and watch and chat. The furniture is moved around to accommodate.
On Fridays, Kevin, into guitar music, knows how to get people up on the dance floor. On Saturdays, Jan, a mellow Bistro singer, does her thing backed up by an electric keyboard.
Wicker chairs and love seats make the front room special. It's a pleasing arrangement, nice for dancing and great for drinks.
Marianne, who trained under the former executive chef, took over as chef two years ago – her strengths are glorious soups and hot breads. The spinach soup was a special the night we dined there, and it was delicious. Flecked with green, it was smooth and luscious.
My first course was a knockout, a seafood vegetable fritter with corn, sweet peppers, salmon, shrimp and pineapple tomato relish. Six inches across, it was crepe-like and reminiscent of Korean pancakes.
Instead of an offering of bruchetta, we were presented with a dinner-size plate of grilled vegetables including eggplant, carrots, zucchini, onions, and mushrooms. With it was a flute champagne glass with tall, straw-thin bread sticks. And if that wasn't enough, a heaping basket of hot breads arrived with Marianne's mini scones and raisin coffee cake squares, plus those irresistible crisps sprinkled profusely with poppy and sesame seeds.
Meanwhile, Jan and the electric keyboard played on. The wild mushroom salad with mixed lettuce and warm thyme vinaigrette and the apple, walnut crouton, blue cheese, mixed lettuce and herb vinaigrette rustic salad were reluctantly bypassed.
The “farm offering” of lemon roasted chicken, crisp-roasted with fresh herbs, roasting juice and mashed potatoes was my dining companion's choice. The ginger duck, roasted with fresh ginger and served with pecan rice was salivating just to contemplate.
I had Southwestern shrimp scampi with a crisp tostada shell filled with tomato salsa in the center of the plate with rice pilaf topped with the shrimp scampi. The tostada added just the right amount of crunch.
Our vegetable of the day was broccoli with small snow peas and ultra-long shreds of carrot done on the mandolin, a sprightly, toothsome combo.
Apple pie, our personable, efficient waiter offered as dessert. What came was an apple tart and good it was. Please don't tell, but I fell for the cappuccino sundae. We used to call it a parfait – a tall slim glass filled with coffee ice cream, coffee bean brickel and liqueur plus a high hat of whipped cream.
Besides Asian specialties, a vegetable, chicken or beef stir fry, there is a roasted rainbow trout with mushroom stuffing, lemon sauce and roast potatoes and trout almondine with boneless trout with lemon dill sauce, sliced almonds and roast potatoes. On Fridays and Saturdays – loin of pork with apple raisin sauce and mashed potatoes.
There's an attractive complete dinner offering with choice of soup-of- the-day, mixed green salad, Caesar salad or fried calamari for an appetizer. The entrees are lemon roast chicken, trout almondine, penne with meat sauce, tortellini della nonna, linguine with clam sauce and weekends, loin of pork. The dessert includes, besides ice cream or sherbet, the dessert of the day and coffee. How much? $20. Eater friendly, don't you agree?
He said it once. He said it twice. He said it thrice. “Isn't this delightful” as we sat in the front room, facing the bar, listening to Jan and savoring Marianne's food while watching Christine bestowing her welcoming kiss.
Delightful setting with rattan Lounge. Music and dancing: Friday guitar, Saturday bistro singer with electric keyboard. Fine American bistro food plus Asian stir fry. Superior service.
Crab Cakes …$7.95
Seafood vegetable Fritters…$6.95
Rustic Salad…$6.50
Wild Mushroom Salad…$6
Grilled Salmon…$16.95
Shell Steak…$19.95
Peanut Butter Brownie Torte…$4.50
Do-It-Yourself Hot Fudge
Sundae…$4.50
Food: American Bistro
Setting: Rattan lounge area
Service: Very fine
Hours: Lunch Tues. to Fri.
Brunch Sun. Dinner 6 days, closed
Mon.
Reservations: Sat and Sun a must
Parking: Lot, rear
Location: Little Neck Parkway and
Lakeville Road
Dress: Casual
Credit cards: All major
Children: Own menu, crayons
Noise level: Conversational
Music and dancing: Guitar on
Fridays, Bistro singer with electric
keyboard Saturdays
Private room: To 150
Takeout: Sure
Off-precise catering: None
Smoking: Front room
Handicapped access: One half-step
