By Harvey D. Goodman
The thought of growing exotic orchids in the home is enough to throw the average gardener into the comfort of a Valium cocktail.
Truth be known, orchids are a lot like humans; not all of them are temperamental, and many do extraordinarily well in a properly prepared home environment.
Let’s begin with a quick tour of orchid habitat. Most orchids are classified as epiphytes, which means they grow above ground, usually attached to the branch or stem of another plant, known as a host plant.
Unlike their parasitic relatives, orchids obtain no nutrients from the host plant. This commensalistic relationship benefits the orchid by providing anchorage, but does no harm to the host. Water and air are obtained from the orchid’s immediate environment.
In nature, most orchids grow on the rainforest floor. The plant is thus very accommodating to indirect light, but requires a great deal of humidity. A number of sun-preferred orchids also are available for those fortunate enough to have a sunny western or southern exposure.
Commercial orchid mixes usually are a blended mix of perlite, pine bark and charcoal. Don’t even think about making your own concoction. The mix is designed to provide a quick-draining porous environment which maximizes root contact with the air.
Clay pots are much more ideal than the plastic or ceramic variety. The terra-cotta clay is very porous, allowing the soil mixture to dry out after each watering. The major cause of orchid demise is root rot, resulting from overwatering.
Many orchids have thick, water-laden leaves. This feature allows the plant to store water and, like a cactus, is fairly well-adapted to drought conditions. An orchid in a 6-inch pot should be watered every five to seven days, depending on temperature and humidity.
If the new leaves that emerge are wrinkled or pleated, the plant is too dry. The orchid will appreciate a good, thorough soaking every two to four weeks. I prefer to leave the plant in a tub of water up to the rim of the pot for 10 to 15 minutes. Let the excess water drain off and pour off any remaining water before replacing the plant to its growth area.
Humidity for these tropical beauties is a must. Place the plant in a saucer several sizes larger than the pot. Place some gravel in the saucer and fill to about 1/4 inch below the rim. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant. Since the plant is not sitting in water, the roots will not rot.
During the growing season, feed the orchid every other week with fertilizer diluted to twice the recommendation on the package. Apply it to the foliage with a spray bottle, water it into the potting mix or use it in the deep soaking technique discussed previously.
Repotting is basically the same as soil-based plants. Select a pot one size larger than the pot in which the plant is growing. Soak the pot and the orchid mix in water for about 15 minutes to insure a moist environment. Keep the repotted orchid out of the sun for about a week while it recovers from transplant shock.
The next column will feature five easy orchids for your growing pleasure.
Questions or comments on gardening and plant care should be addressed to: The Plant Doctor, c/o Queens Publishing Corp. 41-02 Bell Blvd., Bayside, N.Y. 11361, or e-mail Harvey.Goodman@att.net.
