Dining Out: Incas in Kew Gardens offers dishes from many lands

By Carol Brock

INCAS

220-20 Queens Blvd., Kew Gardens
263-6767

Dining at Incas in Kew Gardens has given me new insights on fine Peruvian cuisine.

With sea, mountains and highlands it’s possible to put anything at any season into the chef’s pot. Peru has a lengthy Pacific coastline, highland and jungles with palm cabbage and fish from the Amazon to bananas and cassava.

Spanish, Indian, African, African, Asian (Chinese and Japanese) and touches of European (Italian and French) cuisine have been added over the years to the preparation at Incas based on cooking rather than frying.

At this time in Peru, there’s a fusion or crossing of Creole, Indian, African and European influences.

The setting adds to the Americas dining experience. This summer, walls were cemented and carved to resemble the ruins found in the different Inca tribal villages. You’re greeted at the entrance by the golden Tumi shields inlaid in the cement wall.

We arrived early evening and were seated in the windowed porch beside the Boulevard. Later comers were in the large dining room with the grotto.

I’d recommend starting with a pisco sour. It’s served with a short straw in a martini glass with a sun bust in cinnamon decorating the foam topping. It’s smooth, not too sweet. And then there are Peruvian beers or a pitcher of sangria.

Ceviche, in all its forms, is very Peruvian. It consists of fish (or shrimp or scallops) cut into a neat dice and marinated in lime juice and ground pepper. Sliced raw onion maybe in or topping it. It’s served here as in Peru with yucca, sweet potato and Peruvian corn.

We had ours on a combination platter: Peruvian tamale, a spiced ground corn mixture steamed in a banana leaf. Shrimp in shell. Calamari, ever so small and crisp (and a great favorite at Incas served by the heaping bowlful for snacking with sangria). Stuffed potato (Peru is the land of the potato with over 100 varieties) a favorite entrades with its pointed ended, oval shape, all-filling, mashed potato. I was intrigued by the chicken dish with a bread crumb sauce. And it turned out to be a classic, an example of the crossing of cuisines. Yellow potatoes, a variety only grown in Peru and ground hot yellow peppers are added to a bland sauce made of bread crumbs soaked in milk, ground nuts and slivered chicken (the European touch). This creamy golden sauce topped with Parmesan cheese covers the potatoes. Then it's topped traditionally with slice of hard cooked egg and a black olive. It is served with a mold of white rice. Most delicious.

My dining companion had lamb stew (seco de cordero) in a red pepper sauce. Secos (lamb and kid stews) are always served with a garnishing of boiled plantains, rice and beans. Here the beans are few in a fine sauce-the rice molded-a more refined version.

Both Spanish and Arabic desserts are served in Peru. Mazamorraa Morada is a unique pudding-like mixture made from purple corn with fruit. And Leche Asada served with a cinnamon stick (fun to suck and a chocolate covered pretzel stick-more fun to munch. There are pastries as well and he had one with a pretzel stick stuck in the heart of the whipped cream.

You can go Peruvian on Sunday for breakfast: Slices of pork with fried slices of yam; fried fish filet served with cassava and yams; strips of beef with onion and tomatoes served on roasted potato; Peruvian sausage served with fried slices of yam; Peruvian tamales-chicken or pork; honey comb tripe stew in turmeric sauce. Or go American with French toast, scrambled egg, steak and eggs.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Newly redecorated. Recreates the Inca ruins found in tribal villages. Fine Peruvian cuisine. Peruvian and American Sunday brekfast. Terrific appetizers. Hospitable service.

CHEF'S CHOICE

Ceviche…$10.95

Ceviche de Corvina (Peruvian ceviche of sea trout served with yucca, sweet potato , Peruvian corn)…$10.95

Parmesana (pan baked scallops)…$6.95

Jalea (crispy calamari, shrimp, and diced sea trout topped with onions and tomato in spicy lime juice)…for 2/for 4 $13.95/$25.95

Lomo Saltado (sliced top sirloin sauteed with onions, tomatoes, roasted potatoes)…$13.95 Baby rack ribs (lean pork)…$17.95

Chicharron de Polio (baked chicken served with sweet plantains, white rice)…$13.95

Arroz con Comarones …$16.95

Mazamorraa Morada…$4.75

Leche Asada…$4.75

Hours: 7 days. L Mon- Fri.

Service: Very hospitable .