At the corner of Woodward Avenue and Catalpa Avenue, I was met with a friendly greeting from Jacopo Maffei, one of the three co-founders of Il Gigante, a cozy trattoria in Ridgewood. Surrounded by antiques and trinkets straight from the Italian motherland, it was an inviting atmosphere to all whose taste buds led them to this eatery.
Maffei bellowed the kind of jovial greeting Italians are renowned for. I matched his energy with a jubilant demeanor. As an unapologetic fan of comfort cuisine, I looked forward to our conversation. From his cheerful complexion, I could sense that the Florence native enjoys talking about the restaurant.
In the months following its grand opening on Jan. 17, 2025, the restaurant’s reputation for high-quality cuisine and customer satisfaction fast-tracked it to a spot in the Michelin Guide, a resource that lists prestigious restaurants for gastronomic excellence.
To the delight of neighbors yearning for authentic Italian meals from Lo Stivale (or “The Boot”), its meteoric rise to the top tier of restaurants was inevitable. Located at 880 Woodward Ave., Il Gigante has been serving native nostalgia in one of the trendiest neighborhoods in Queens. The restaurant’s curated cuisine selection speaks to the dining standards that Maffei, along with Lorenzo Pizzoli and Ed Lombardo, the co-founders, has worked to maintain.
Built on the comfort of handmade pasta and none of the pretentiousness, Il Gigante is the culinary brainchild of Maffei, Pizzoli and Lombardo. The trio, with the exception of Lombardo, who hails from Boston, Massachusetts, sought to bring their childhood memories of Bologna and Florence to The World’s Borough in the form of classic Italian cuisine.
The extensive menu, overseen by Chef Davide Bugamelli, features homestyle pasta from their native cities, including the Lasagna alla Bolognese, a green lasagna topped with bechamel sauce and all-beef ragù, and the Pappardelle al Ragù, a plate of noodles with all-beef ragù.
For the anti-meat clientele, the Rigatoni alľ Arrabbiata, tube-shaped pasta rolled with Calabrian chili, and the Tortelloni Burro e Salvia, pasta stuffed with ricotta cheese, are alternative options.
Maffei hired Bugamelli to the Il Gigante kitchen because of his extensive culinary experience while growing up in Bologna. After his grandparents instilled in him an appreciation for cooking, the chef went on to perfect consistency over the past four decades through trial and error. Bugamelli vouched for Maffei’s work ethic, noting his frequent collaboration on testing dishes for their quality.
“We are here to propose [classic recipes] to the customers with the right ingredients,” Bugamelli said. “All imported, cooked and processed with love and passion.” The chef further asserted that a quality selection of imported Italian wine and ingredients is what drives Il Gigante forward in the restaurant realm. The colleagues go to great lengths to ensure that the dining experience is never compromised or cheapened.
When describing his colleagues, Maffei confirmed that “culinarily and culturally, we are very close.” With a thoughtful gaze, the co-founder reflected on their success as business partners in a neighborhood that was once unfamiliar to Maffei. Maffei noted that the trio was “lucky” to collaborate, as they shared cultural similarities. Aside from the similarities, Maffei joked about Lombardo’s essential role at Il Gigante: treasurer.
“He’s our behind-the-scenes number guy, the one to smack our hands when we spend too much money,” Maffei shared with a hearty laugh. While Lombardo crunches the numbers, he and Pizzoli handle the hospitality ends of the business, drawing from their combined years of experience in the service industry.
Maffei further recounted his personal experience growing up in Central Italy, sharing that his familial upbringing prepared him for the entrepreneurial life — a childhood that Pizzoli can relate to on a personal level.
“We were very young in the ’80s, teenagers in the ’90s. So our fondest memories [involve] heavy lunch and dinner with our families in [trattorias]. It was this honest way to serve food, like this peasant way to serve food, like a lot of meat, a lot of homemade pasta.”
Maffei continued to describe the communal aspect of meals in the Tuscany region. The unrelenting presence of the owner socializing with customers, treating them like close family members. At Il Gigante, he leans into the tradition of fostering a homely space for customers, ensuring their return.
Erin Florio, the wife of Maffei, believed that the “strong point of view” of the co-founders, in terms of food quality and atmosphere, is what made Il Gigante an immediate success. The restaurant’s mission is to serve reliable meals without excess. A place that feels like Italy is at the doorstep.
“They wanted to create a neighborhood restaurant. The type of place that feels welcoming and friendly, that you’d want to return to and not just leave for a special occasion.”
Florio described her husband’s objective to honor the food from the homeland and introduce it to Ridgewood, a particularly close-knit community in western Queens. When asked about his work ethic, she added that his knowledge in engaging with people as a host makes him a “master” in the craft. The feel-good energy in the space is the key to the eatery’s positive reception.
Despite being in its infancy, il Gigante has become a local fixture for pasta aficionados in New York City. But it is not just the meals that won the hearts of customers — it is also the gregarious greetings. And Maffei is the friendly force behind the eatery’s amicable nature.
In Bologna, a towering statue called the Fountain of Neptune resides in the streets with its permanent gaze fixed on the mainland. The common nickname, as bestowed by locals, is Il Gigante, or “the giant.” Maffei’s presence in the restaurant is similar to the statue: prominent, but with the warmth of your next-door neighbor.
To find out more about Il Gigante, visit their website.
